I find myself in a city with a less distinguishable ‘old town’ than many others. You see, in the late 19th century, there occurred a massive earthquake followed by another in 1911. Between these two events, most of the old buildings were wiped out. Come get lost with me in Almaty Kazakhstan and let’s see what we can find in this relatively newly built city.
Where to Go?
My modern and huge apartment complex is located outside of the core, but still within walking distance. Where I think I want to head this day is towards a place called Arbat Almaty. It’s a pedestrian only street, and these are usually the cultural hub of a city. I’m curious to see what we find along the way and around that area.
Tanks!
Walking up a street called Kaldayakov, I have to rub my eyes to re-examine if what I am seeing is real! Right at the sidewalk, and filling a large area in front of the Military History Museum of the Ministry of Defense of Kazakhstan, is a number of vehicles.
These include tanks, weapons and artillery that date from the Soviet Era during WWII. Children dressed in uniform are climbing on top and over all of these items, nothing is roped off. The museum itself is free to enter should you wish, and is the large and domineering building behind the tanks. Quite a presence and introduction into the architecture that can be found in Almaty.
Memorial of Glory
Pass under that huge arch and courtyard and we find ourselves in a park called 28 Panfilov Guardsmen. Large and beautiful shade trees fill the green spaces but so do many statues. One such is the Memorial of Glory. This overbearing piece is a must see as is the Almaty Eternal Flame that sprawls in front and was lit in 1975.
Flanking the flame are two more statues, one called the ‘Oath’ and the other ‘Trumpeting Glory’. The size and force of this entire complex make sense when you remember that Almaty was the capital of Kazakhstan up until 1997.
Arbat Almaty
Needing something a little less severe, I turn tail and head for Arbat Almaty. Walking these wide avenues, most of which are lined with trees, is a pleasant experience. I like looking at the various styles of architecture as I go. I’m surprised when I come across buildings that have so much detail and learn that they are Soviet era ones. Very pretty, they remind me of what I saw in Varna Bulgaria.
Arriving at Arbat, I am thrilled to find a street filled with people and not vehicles. Colourful overhead banners flitter in the sunlight. I begin to notice quite a few statues of apples! Did you know that Almaty Kazakhstan is the birthplace of the modern apple? Its true! In the foothills of the giant mountains that soar over one side of the city, the apple was born.
Street Art
Now that I think I have found the cultural hub of the city, I begin to notice the art. Peeking down streets I see end walls of otherwise utilitarian apartment complexes covered with these huge murals. I love the cultural ones; they offer an insight into this complex land that has had quite a distinct history. There is even a large piece called “Father of Apples” that is bursting with colour and creativity.
St Nicholas Cathedral
Turning a corner and heading in another direction I see a glimpse of sparkling gold and teal. I must investigate and discover what this is. Finding first a little park, I circle around the walls until I see an opening and a glorious church stands right in front. Called St Nicholas Cathedral, it was built in 1906 and was spared by the Russians. They did close it down and use it for the Bolshevik cavalry, but in 1980 it reopened to the public and is offering services to this day.
The Golden Warrior
There is something that has been on my radar that I must look at and I think today is the day. Heading up the street from the cathedral we reach Republic Square. To my utter dismay, it is completely walled off and closed. What I wanted to see is The Golden Warrior Monument in the centre.
Not one to give up, I walk the complete circumference of the large construction area, to try and discover if I can even get a peek, or my phone in through a gap to take a photo. At the last moment, when I’m just about to call it quits, I spot an opening, but there are construction workers there. I look in and attempt to take a photo, no matter how poor.
A kind gentleman, perhaps a foreman, approaches and waves me in! Delighted that I can at least get closer I begin to snap away. He motions to have my phone and wants to take photos of me. Afterwards he walks me over to a massive lilac bush that he is saying is ‘beautiful!’. Again, I am told were to stand for yet more photos. 😂 I thank this kind gent profusely, and head for the exit after hearing his radio chirrup, not wanting to get him in trouble.
The Mayors Office
Across the street from Republic Square is an absolutely massive building that must be investigated. This is the style of Soviet architecture I am used to seeing and am familiar with. Not brutalism per say, but very utilitarian, clean lines and geometric. This is in fact the Mayors Office.
Out front is a glorious display of tulips, a park like space and a large memorial. Having now reached the end of my stamina, its time to find a quite café, enjoy a sweet treat and this bright sunshine, before making my way back to my flat. Almaty is definitely an interesting city to explore. It feels calm here, eclectic and coming back to life after a cold deep winter.
