I am in an area of the city that is actually a peninsula of the mainland, as opposed to the island itself. What was once fertile farmland, is now one of the most densely populated places on the planet. The streets and alleys are full of character, vim, illicit activity and chaos. Come get lost with me in Kowloon Hong Kong and let’s see what we find.
Day Time
There are two distinct atmospheres to this city, separated by time. During the day, labourers and workers are out filling up the commercial space, shops, markets and such. At night the city is a whole different animal. Let’s start in the morning. The weather is muggy; everyone is glistening and sticky. Men often have their shirts lifted up showing their protruding bellies, or no shirt at all. The sky is almost always white, producing a bland cast across every photo.
Older buildings that once had colour, are now faded and covered with filth, exhaust and pollution. Many facades are a nest of bamboo scaffolding, repairing what is underneath, I do not know.
Streets
As I wander down the larger streets, the easiest and sometimes only way to cross is by the over head walkways. This gives me both a reprieve from the heaving crowds and a view of city life. Major roads such as Nathan Street are filled with shopping malls, high end shops and gold stores. Large jumbotrons flash advertisements across the sides of the buildings, enticing shoppers inside. But its not these types of streets I want to see. It’s the small, more traditional ones.
Here in Kowloon, there are entire streets that sell only one product. For example, a street that sells only kitchenware, and another tiles. One more selling bathroom fixtures, and another live fish to be kept as pets. A unique feature that inadvertently organizes this old city for its residents.
Offerings
While poking around these little streets and even smaller alleys, I begin to see Taoist offerings. These are usually placed to honor the dead, give blessings to a business or mollify a wandering spirit. It is obvious that these have been here for years and always interesting to see what exactly is placed.
Street Art
Besides the run of the mill graffiti that I shouldn’t be surprised to see in a city, is the street art. Its not fanciful, and I only spot one large purposeful mural. Instead, these are smaller pieces on doors, alley walls, and any blank space, many look older and worn and I am glad they have not been painted over or removed. There does seem to be a rejuvenation of artistic décor on some community centres though and these are fun to see. They add colour to buildings during the day, when the light and sky can be otherwise bland.
Shops
The small shops in Kowloon can be fascinating to discover. Many of these are providing traditional items for the locals. Chinese medicines, a variety of brews of alcohol, herbs and even coffins. Insect repellent for the local breeds of bugs and rodents and infiltrate the buildings and streets.
Night Time
The one thing I have my heart set on for this trip to Kowloon, is seeing the old retro neon lights. Unfortunately, they are slowly being removed which makes me want to weep, for they are the backbone of character along these historical streets. For the evening and early night, I head to an area south of my hotel in Mongkok. The area around Oi Man Sang Restaurant. There is Apliu Street Flea Market close by with small kiosks selling all sorts of treasures.
These are some of the signs I was hoping to see and admire. The colour they add, the atmosphere they provide are what stories and movies are made from. This is the Jackie Chan Mongkok Hong Kong that people like me want preserved. Perhaps wishful thinking as this land and space is just so incredibly valuable now.
Coming from Chengdu China, my brain was expecting something at least similar. What I have found in Kowloon however, couldn’t be more different. While Chengdu was clean, green, gentle and felt safe, it’s just about the opposite here. I feel lucky to be seeing this side of Hong Kong versus the island though. This is the heart, the life blood and where history both good and evil has seeped and infiltrated every square inch.
