The weather forecast shows a few days of sunshine in a row and that alone has determined its time to discover this capital city. Having just arrived on the Viking Lines ferry, I walk off, and with no set destination, head for the first thing I see that catches my eye. Let’s have fun exploring Helsinki Finland for the first time, on a bright sunny day.
Uspenski Cathedral
Not an architectural style I was expecting to see in the Finnish capital, but an intriguing one nonetheless. Built in 1868 it is the largest Orthodox church in western Europe. I decide not to enter; there is an entrance fee and I have arrived when a bus load of tourists is here. Instead, I turn right at the harbour and wander the picturesque marina for a short way, down the coastal sidewalk.
Helsinki Market Square
After turning around, I pass a government building and see the changing of the guards. Across the street I notice tents and I have to find out what is happening there. It’s the Helsinki Market Square and consumes the entire plaza at the port. The market attracts all the tourists coming from the ferries and cruise ships. It’s full of souvenirs and lots of food, both fresh and ready to eat. If I hadn’t of had the buffet breakfast onboard, I might be tempted by bright red strawberries of a piece of fresh salmon.
Esplanade Park
After admiring a gorgeous fountain surrounded by seals spraying water, I cross the street and find myself in Esplanade Park. What a beautiful area full of tall shade trees, flower beds, statues and benches lining the wide central path. Here I decide to take a seat and enjoy a blueberry juice and sparkling water. Finland is known for its pure iconic blueberry juice, harvested from wild Nordic bilberries. This park has quickly become my favourite centralized location for people watching, taking a rest and enjoying the atmosphere.
Hotel Anna
Its almost time for me to check-in and that is purely to get rid of this backpack so I can continue my explorations unhindered. Walking towards Hotel Anna, I pass an extraordinary brick building with a group of dishevelled males out front. I Google the building and see that it is being used as an emergency centre, for paramedics and such.
Arriving at the hotel, I am given my single room, its astonishingly hot with no A/C, old and dated furnishings, but was one of the most inexpensive places I could find. The cost is $110 per night, but I was able to use accumulated points to pay for the room, so for me it isn’t costing anything. 😁
National Library
With a change of clothes, I head right back out, not wanting to waste a minute of this precious time in Helsinki. I’ve decided to go straight to the National Library as it’s free to enter. Built in two parts, the first section was completed in 1844 and the latter, round portion, in 1906. This is Finland’s research library, responsible for cultural heritage, and forms part of the university. There are six floors above ground. Climb up the narrow staircases to reach the glass ceiling then peer down through the centre for a great view.
What you may not know is most of the collection is actually underground! Eighteen metres below the ground, bored into solid rock, it a bunker called the kirjaloula (book cave). It consists of six floors and yes visitors can go down there too. The bunker is quite industrial looking, almost militaristic. The smell of old books is heavenly. There is even a small museum showcasing banned books.
Helsinki Cathedral
Probably the most prominent structure in the city is Helsinki Cathedral (Lutheran). Located at the massive Senate Square, it opened in 1852 and sits atop a knoll overlooking the harbour and city centre.
Streets
Now for my favourite part of visiting a new destination, exploring with complete abandon. Walking the streets, I notice they are busy. Loads of vehicles, trams, motorbikes and bicycles in continuous movement. And so many people too! This might be predominately tourists, but I have a hunch that the sunshine has brought the locals outdoors.
Café’s spill onto the sidewalks, as do boutique stores, attempting to entice shoppers into their midst. I notice many locals are carrying a tote bag with the words ‘marimekko’ and am so curious I have to do a Google search.
Shopping
Marimekko is a Finnish brand that began in 1951. I find the closest shop and head inside to check it out. Using bright colours and bold patterns, the styles are simple yet elegant. Glancing at the price tags, I definitely won’t be leaving with anything, but I sure wish I could. The cottons are so thick and luxurious, they ooze exquisite quality.
I am limited by my single suitcase, being a full-time traveller, so can’t in fact purchase anything. That doesn’t stop me from entering other shops to see what is available. I love the simple styles, clean lines, organic shapes and natural materials. The souvenirs are fun too and I can’t resist having a look at some of those.
Dinner
I have worked up quite an appetite now, having not eaten since breakfast. Its time to find somewhere to dine and I know just the place after a quick Google search. Called Ravintola Konstan Molja, I arrive and hope to get a seat, as I don’t have a reservation. With luck I am shown to a table and the meal is described. You see, I have come to a restaurant that supplies a small but curated traditional buffet to its patrons.
Salads, meats and ale is what fills my plates and glass. For starters I choose from a selection of pickled vegetables and cold fish, local herring, salmon, shrimp and rustic bread. My next plate is the hot one and is what I am actually excited to try. Reindeer! Paired with mashed potatoes, roast vegetables, and lingonberries, it is a completely delicious, lip-smacking meal. The reindeer meat is tender and succulent. Not overly gamey at all, no where close to venison for example.
I return for seconds and add to my plate the baked salmon and other stews including lamb and beef. Paired with the local house made cold ale, the meal is incredible. If I’m honest, I eat beyond my fill and feel like a medieval lord, patting his extended belly in pain and satisfaction. 😂🤭 Cost for this entire evening is €38 or $61 (CAD).
Well, that is day one in the books. What a perfect and amazing start to this short jaunt to Helsinki. I am enchanted with this city, its vibrancy, colour and architecture. I don’t know what I was expecting really, having done next to no research, but it surely wasn’t this. I’ll rest my feet now having done 26,000 steps and wake up early to begin day two!
