I have spent a considerable amount of time in the Balkans over the past few years of full-time travel. The similarities across these former Yugoslavian countries comes as no surprise anymore. The jarring culture shock that does arise right now, is a result of where I have just departed. Arriving from Tallinn Estonia, the two countries couldn’t be more different and my senses feel like they have been assaulted. Here are my first impressions of Belgrade Serbia, before the familiarity comes flooding back.
Hot and Dry
Dusty and crusty, the city is so dry and the air is heavy and palpable. After walking for an hour, I have what feels like a lump of acid at the back of my throat. Any ‘green space’ is only green from what leaves remain on the trees. The grass is dead and trampled so much the ground has literally turned to dust.
Unattractive
My Airbnb is a full one hour walk from old town, and being this far away from the tourist areas, nothing is beautified. Sidewalks are broken and most of them you can’t even access because cars are parked up on them. Pedestrians must walk in the streets along side moving vehicles. Buildings are mostly exposed concrete or stuccoed and don’t appear to see a day of maintenance past when they were initially constructed. There are no flowers, no gardens, no colour except for the graffiti.
Graffiti
Its all over but not as bad as Bratislava per say where it is predominately gang tagging. Here there are more artistic pieces, a lot of political messages, sports fans and unfortunately a lot of racist graffiti. One thing that pleases me is that the graffiti is not ruining historical buildings as much in Belgrade, well not from what I have seen so far. It is predominately on concrete walls, garbage cans, buildings yes, but they are average structures.
Costs
I know if I was located in the older part of Belgrade I would have a different impression. But I am not. Here in an average residential area, this is what the city looks like. For a Balkan city, Belgrade is quite expensive especially for accommodation, and that is the reason I am so far away from the city centre.
I visit the Balkans for several reasons, the main one being it is not part of the Schengen Zone. Once I have used up my 90 days in any one of those 26 countries I have to exit for a full 90 days before I can return. The Balkans allow me to remain in Europe, but be outside of that zone for 90 days. Then I can re-enter and visit the countries that have a level of history and beauty that I seek and am curious to see.
Another reason I visit the Balkans is they are toasty warm and sunny in the summer and fall. I follow the sunshine on my travels; it’s a critical determining factor in where I chose to visit. The Balkans are also generally less expensive than western Europe, so I can afford to be here in high season. My travels are very much dictated by budget, so if I want to be in Europe in the high season, summer time, it almost always is going to be in the east.
Having spent so much time in this part of Europe, there are definitely places that I would return to over and over and others that are a ‘one and done’. Bosnia for example, I will absolutely return one day, to explore more of that country. Albania is a one and done for me. Belgrade? Not sure yet. Let’s get out there, hit the streets and see what this city has going on!
