I am curious to visit this part of the city, the newest large-scale development for the nation’s capital. I have heard many mixed reviews on social media. Some say it is completely soulless; this usually comes from locals. Others relate how much the city needs to be updated and they welcome the change. Is Belgrade Waterfront worth the hype? Or is there simply an ulterior motive at play.
What is It?
The project began in 2015 as a joint initiative between the Republic of Serbia and Eagle Hills, a development company based in the UAE. The purpose is to create a mixed-use large urban complex on an otherwise little used part of the city.
Historically this area on the banks of the Sava River was the location of the main railway yard, several parks and some historical buildings. While the old train station that is situated several blocks away has been preserved, everything along the river bank has been demolished.
Eagle Hills
Eagle Hills is based in Abu Dhabi and began operations in 2014. This real estate development company was formed exactly for this purpose. To create these massive urban sites around the world that generally contain shopping arcades, hotels, restaurants and a marina. Cities where they have created similar developments over the past decade include Durres in Albania, Bahrain, Riga waterfront in Latvia and La Gare in Ethiopia. The company’s first project was this one here in Belgrade.
Not all of their development plans have come to fruition however. The attempt in Budapest was cancel-led after the mayor reported the project as a “scandalous and shady backdoor deal”. My Airbnb host labels it more bluntly, as a money laundering scheme.
Belgrade Tower
The largest building on the site and in fact the largest in Serbia is the Belgrade Tower. This 42-story skyscraper houses the St. Regis Hotel at its base and residential units above. It is quite a striking building but does stand out like a sore thumb as there is nothing around it coming close to its size.
Residential Blocks
For hectares around the base of the tower, are a plethora of new apartment buildings that look like cookie cutter Lego structures in their simplicity. And surrounding those, cranes as far as the eye can see. This is still a very active construction site. In fact, the day I visited, I couldn’t even access the front of the Belgrade Tower as the whole road is blocked off with construction vehicles and fencing.
Sava Promenade
The best part of this whole enterprise is the promenade. It’s a lovely four kilometer walk along the picturesque Sava River. Near the middle and just past the tower is the Galerija Belgrade a large shopping complex full of restaurants and eateries that spill out onto the promenade.
Branko’s Bridge
At the far end of the promenade the development ends abruptly at Branko’s Bridge. Here is a large bus station that serves the area and connects it to the rest of the city. Interestingly the only buses placed here are the newest, cleanest and best. The rest of the city has been delegated the oldest buses, dated, dirty and loud.
What do you think? Does this massive urban development complement the city? Or is it too much. I have to agree with the locals I have spoken to. It is indeed soulless, its boring. One could take the entire complex, plunk it into any other country and no one would have any idea that it is linked to Belgrade or Serbia. I had no desire what so ever to sit and enjoy a coffee here, there is no draw. Sure, it is new and clean, a vivid contrast to the rest of the city, but at what cost? Then again, this capital city does have to move forward, this is progress. What do you think?
