One of the things that intrigues me about Tallinn is its proximity to Helsinki. A short trip across the sea and you find yourself in the Finnish capital. I’ve been blessed with a few sunny days in a row, somewhat of a rarity in this part of northern Europe. A sojourn in a new city sounds just about perfect right now. There are three companies that operate this route, I have decided to take a different one there and back, in order to compare, old to new. Viking or Tallink, which is the best ferry option and why.
Tallinn Port
One large harbour area where all three ferry lines leave from, however from different terminals. Viking Lines departs from Terminal A and Tallink Silja from Terminal D. If you happen to arrive at the wrong terminal, do not fret, it only takes 10 minutes to walk between the two.
Terminal A Departure
Online booking for a Viking ticket is easiest. The prices fluctuate somewhat depending on the season and how far in advance your travel date is. My ticket costs €25 for one way, walk on and off, the ride taking 2.5 hours. You will need your passport for travel and ID. Upon arrival at Terminal A find the automated machines. Here scan your QR code that was emailed to you when you purchased your ticket, and receive a paper ticket from the machine. There are also ticket counters in the terminal, one was open for the 8am departure.
All passengers are kept downstairs in one massive hall until boarding time approaches. Once the escalator is opened by staff, it’s a mad dash upstairs to the boarding gate. When that gate opens, its another mad dash onto the ferry itself. Cattle herding would be an appropriate comparison.
Viking XPRS
On board the Viking XPRS now and having no idea where to go, I pause to look at the ship’s map. There are 10 decks on this huge cruise ship like vessel. The first two are for crew use. Decks 3-5 are for vehicles and the 6th floor is all cabins. XPRS is used on various routes, some of which are longer and overnight, hence the need for cabins.
Deck 7 is shopping, the night club, dance floor and large bar, a gambling room and a smaller sundeck at the rear. The night club and bar smell horrible, of sticky stale booze and the furnishings are dated and worn. Shopping includes clothing, makeup, perfume, souvenirs and loads of alcohol.
Food
Deck 8 is the restaurant deck of which there are six in total. After perusing them all, food looks fresh and about the same in each one, so it just depends on which kind of atmosphere you want. The Red Rose is a family area, very loud with lots of children. Bistro Coffee has light fare and a selection of coffee beverages to take away. Blue Deli is like a small cafeteria with a selection of hot and cold items, and even a convenience store area.
The buffet is where the bulk of the passengers have dashed too as soon as they were able to set foot on board. Its extremely crowded, so I decide to head out to the largest sundeck located at the rear of the ship on this deck.
Sundecks
Here I find a bar and a huge seating area with stairs up to the next outdoor deck as well. After choosing a mimosa at a cost of €5 I take a seat and enjoy this first part of the journey in style. On the Viking XPRS passengers are able to walk the length of the ship on both sides on two floors. Its marvellous to be able to explore so much of the ship outside and feeling the wind blowing while gasping in great lungfuls of the Baltic Sea air.
Buffet
Now that some time has passed, I make my way to the buffet. Many people have left easing up some room and seating. The cost for the breakfast is €19 and after looking at the rest of the food places on board, this seems the best deal. It also allows me the opportunity to taste some Estonian and Finnish food that I haven’t had the pleasure of yet.
I create a salad plate that includes Baltic Herring with Mustard, Sandwich Cake with Hot Smoked Rainbow Trout (not a fan), and Cured Salmon with Mustard Sauce, plus the traditional shrimp in sauce. My hot plate is an assortment of eggs, meatballs, bacon, potatoes, local crepe and traditional pastry. Along with juice, coffee and a bowl of fruit and sweet treats, this becomes a most enjoyable way to start the day.
Arrival into Helsinki
Around the two-hour mark, make your way to an outer deck. The arrival into the Katajanokka Terminal in Helsinki is incredibly picturesque and one you won’t want to miss. With natural stone and woodland on one side and a castle and fortifications on the other, the views are incredible!
This old terminal and port is so close to the city, you can walk off the ship and into the Helsinki square in about 20 minutes. Its perfect.
Departing Helsinki
Now I find myself returning back to Tallinn and I have decided to take the Tallink Silja Megastar, the newest ship to cross the gulf. The first big disadvantage of this line is that it uses West Terminal 2 in Helsinki. This is the new port area and is a one hour walk from the city centre. You can take a tram however, that will take you right to the terminal doors.
Inside is a huge space where passengers will first need to scan their QR code on a machine. You can then enter into a waiting room full of food options and facilities until boarding time approaches. Once those doors open, it’s a mad dash up to the entrance to the ship. Think lots of halls, escalators and ramps. As soon as I got onboard, I was feeling lost, so I found a ship map to get myself sorted.
Tallink Megastar
The Tallink Megastar is a highspeed shuttle between Helsinki and Tallinn and makes the journey in 2 hours vs 2.5 of Viking Lines. The cost of my ticket is a whopping €41 🤯 This is a basic walk on, walk off fare, nothing extra or fancy. That’s the second big disadvantage of Tallink, the elevated costs.
Like its competitor it has 10 decks and is a massive vessel that feels more like a cruise ship. Decks one to six are crew, vehicles and cabins. Seven thru ten are for passengers and two of these floors are shopping alone. 🤯
Food
A plethora of restaurants, lounges and bars await hungry riders and include a buffet at a cost of €34.50 or $55 CAD. Not a chance on my budget thanks. What I noticed was the bulk of the travellers didn’t head to the buffet on this ship, instead they went to Burger King! 😂 A much more affordable option. Fancy fine dining? Head to the Chef’s Kitchen for braised beef cheeks. Conversely the Fast Lane has quick grab snacks and finger foods.
I made my way outside, preferring that area anyway and was completely disappointed. This is for me personally, the third biggest disadvantage of Megastar. A huge lack of outdoor space! I ordered a beverage from the bar within and took it outside to the single deck which is covered. All this means is no fresh air, instead lungs full of smoker’s smoke. 🤢 Gulping down my drink I returned to the interior to explore the rest of the ship.
Seating & Amenities
I have to say the Megastar has some beautiful seating areas and lots of them. Bright and Nordic looking, or dark and dim sports bars, there is a plethora of spots to choose from. Even a large area full of airplane type seats that looks oddly out of place but were surprisingly full of passengers.
There is a play area, lockers (Viking has these too), video games and arcade, gambling room and lots of space to walk and spend time.
Shopping
Where this vessel really wants to guide its passengers is to the multi-level shopping mall. Yes, two floors filled with everything, it feels like one is inside a department store. Need a pair of shoes? No problem. New leather handbag, blouse or Calvin Klien briefs, they have you covered.
Souvenirs are plentiful as is the massive area dedicated to all thing’s alcohol and smoking/vaping. As you walk around this mall, it becomes more and more difficult to remember you are on a ship riding across the Gulf of Finland.
Arrival into Tallinn
No point going outside to see anything, because there is not enough deck space that is exposed to see the approach into beautiful Tallinn. The arrival at Terminal D is quick and efficient. Once those doors open the mass of almost 3,000 passengers’ heads for a singular hallway, ramps, escalators and stairs to get down and outside.
What an adventure! I absolutely love riding on a ferry and its some of the most memorable times I have had on water during my travelling years. These ones are no exception. Viking Lines, even though it is quite dated and stinky in areas has three major advantages. Tallink Silja is glossy and new, feels fresh and clean but wow is it ever expensive and the ports are a real turn off. Which one will you choose for your next trip to Finland?
