I am here for such a short time with no set plans other than to walk the streets, eat delicious things and take in as much beauty as I can. There is one specific place, perhaps a little creepy, that I know I want to see but otherwise I am free as a bird in this capital city. Come and spend a magical day in Vienna with me and let’s see what we can find.
Breakfast
I’ve been asked by my eldest daughter to visit Café Landtmann and enjoy a traditional meal. I think it’s a great idea so have arrived bright and early. Landtmann’s was founded in 1873 and since then has changed hands numerous times, but always retained the original name. In 1929 it underwent a massive renovation and the interiors have remained virtually unchanged since then. That cozy golden aesthetic and luxurious chandeliers, carved wood and crystal-clear glass lending an atmosphere of sophistication and pomp.
Many famous people have dined here, including Sigmund Freud. It is situated near the Burgtheatre, University of Vienna and Town Hall, so has been a meeting place for politicians and the like for decades. This morning I enjoy a lovely coffee, grapefruit juice and the kaiserschmarrn. These are pancakes sliced up and served with plum sauce. Total cost is €30.70 or $50 CAD and I was asked by the waiter to leave a tip. Not that I wouldn’t have, but to be asked in such an establishment is gouache.
Let’s Start Exploring
St Stephens Cathedral seems the perfect place to begin the days adventures. Its right down in the central part of the old city and is a magnificent structure to behold. What was once the site of a Roman burial ground is today a Gothic masterpiece. This stunning structure was founded in 1147 and is the historical heart of the city. Walking around all sides, its that detailed façade and tiled roof that are demanding my attention.
Catacombs
For a fee of €8, visitors can join a guided tour and explore the labyrinth of tunnels that form a maze under not only the cathedral but the surrounding streets too. The meeting point in inside and generally the tours operate every half hour. Let’s head down into the dark belly below the church and see what is there. My particular group is too large; the guide didn’t do the 9 or 9:30am tours and now this 10am one is crowded. I hang back and while I cannot hear what the guide is saying, I can look at the tunnels and rooms at my leisure and without being pressured by others.
This system of burial vaults and tunnels was greatly expanded in 1359 to hold the remains of the Austrian royalty and Habsburg monarchs. The Ducal Chamber is the most famous of these vaults and the room leading to it is full of shelved jars that contain their entrails.
Moving past this formal area, we are guided down long dark tunnels and are now below the square, quite aways from the church. Here is where the 11,000 bodies from the plague, are piled in mass graves. When the gravesites became too full, the bodies were brought to the courtyard of the church and piled high. For everyone’s safety, they were placed deep into these mass sealed domed rooms, and that is what can be partially viewed today. Some rooms are so large you can stand over top of openings and peer down onto piles of other bones below.
Lunch
After a little wander around the streets leading from the cathedral, its time for an Austrian lunch. It has begun to rain and this has me looking for a place in haste. I decide to pop into L. Heiner and wow am I ever thrilled to have found this authentic establishment. Founded in the 1840’s there are now four locations of this six-generation eatery. Downstairs is a large counter filled with pastries and cakes and a single row of café style tables. Upstairs are the larger booths and tables full of mostly older folks, busy gossiping and spending time together. It’s a lovely atmosphere, quiet, gentle and sophisticated.
After I peruse the large case upstairs, I decide those salads look incredible. I choose the Garniertes Ei which is a stuffed egg salad and to drink I can’t resist the Erdbeer mit Prosecco. The salad arrives and it is so tasty, bursting with freshness. I polish the plate and sit for a while, contemplating the lovely company around me and watching the female wait staff in their traditional long skirts flitter about the room.
The skies are still dark and I’ve not been able to get those cakes off my mind. Throwing caution to the wind, I order a cappuccino and a slice of walnut cake. Oh my, to treat myself feels extravagant but so good at the same time. Each bit of that cool creamy cake pairs perfectly with an afternoon coffee. Cost for everything is €29.70 or $50 CAD. What a perfect two hours spent dry, cozy and fulfilled.
Street Scenes
I decide for the rest of the afternoon, I’ll simply wander these beautiful old streets and enjoy my surroundings. The architecture is so romantic and grand, these huge palaces towering above me. I pass by fountains, into courtyards and plazas both large and small. This city feels flirty and fun and I try to capture the details that I want to preserve in my mind and in this post.
One thing that is a constant down near the cathedral are the horse drawn carriages. While I would never ride in one, they do add a flair of the romantic to the city. Another thing that catches my eye are the statues and ornate characters that decorate many of the buildings.
Wanting to see one of the gardens, I head to Stadtpark. Here I wander under the drooping shade trees, laden heavy with water droplets. The large pond is filled with ducks and makes a picturesque scene. This park is famous for its statues of composers and I notice those as I walk too.
Naschmarkt
On the way back towards my Airbnb, I have to check this place out. The Naschmarkt has about 100 stalls and probably half are café style outdoor eateries. The most popular one is at the end and sells seafood. I had an idea to try fresh oysters here for the first time in my life. But then I saw the price of €3.90 each! I’ll pass. 😂 The remainder of the market has a mixture of stalls selling everything from souvenirs to fresh produce, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, spices, Turkish candy and so much more.
Dinner
Having neared my Airbnb, its time to have another traditional Viennese meal. This one I have been looking forward to for a while and is another suggestion from my daughter. My host has recommended a pub only a few blocks away for an authentic experience, so its to Café Anzengruber that I head now. Taking a seat outside on the sidewalk I order a beer and schnitzel!
I’m told by my friendly server that the side should be the potato salad, that is the most authentic option. Out comes the beer and is that ever the perfect thing my tastebuds need in this moment, after a day spent walking the city. Before I know it, my meal arrives and it is amazing. That huge pork schnitzel and potato salad is actual heaven, the perfect lip-smacking end to a great day. Cost is €23.90 before tip, or $39 CAD. €19 of that is for the schnitzel alone.
Wow what a day! Ive walked more than 25,000 steps, eaten some amazing food, and seen another European capital city. I’ve always been curious about Vienna, but have not booked a long stay, mainly because of the cost involved. Now that I have spent a couple of days here, that is enough for me. It’s a huge city filled with beauty and history but also not somewhere I feel at ease. Crowded, rushed and chaotic, Vienna is a one and done for me. And that’s okay, not every destination is going to be a favourite for every person. How boring if it were.
