I haven’t seen much real history yet in Shanghai so I search where to go to experience some old Chinese architecture. You know the style, those gorgeous swooping eaves like birds’ wings, dark carved wood, romantically conservative. As soon as these buildings alight on my iPad screen, I know I have found exactly what I’m looking for. Come with me to explore beautiful Yuyuan Old Street and the magic within.
Location
Yuyuan is the historical centre of the city, the main attractions nearby are Yuyuan Garden and City God Temple (海城隍庙). Take metro line 10 and exit at the Yuyuan Garden Station. Or walk from The Bund, its not far at all, basically just past the far end of the promenade.
This is old town Shanghai and developed because of the temple, build in the late 15th century and garden constructed just after that. For these 100 years of the Ming Dynasty, the area became populated with locals who were supporting the temple and its people. Following that, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) the area greatly expanded and became a huge hub of commercial trading. Local banks established themselves here as well as wealthy merchants of silk and jewellery.
Fangbang Middle Road (方浜中路)
Fangbang is the actual name of Yuyuan Old Street, is where I first enter the district. This street is lined with massive old buildings of such a beautiful architectural style. Multi-storied, these come with splendid ‘flying eaves’ that reach far out beyond the white walls for protection against rain and sun.
Shopping and stores on this street will open by mid day, however for a magical scene, a night time visit is advised. Along this road find large jewellery stores, souvenir shops and restaurants. This is the outer layer of the onion, now let’s head inwards.
Yuyuan Bazaar
Like a nest, the further into the old lanes and alleys the more enchanting the bazaar comes. At once you will be exploring a dim narrow space and suddenly pop out into a large courtyard or square. I arrive mid morning in an attempt to avoid crowds and actually get to see and enjoy the architecture. By mid day, the bazaar can become a little overwhelming with the tour groups especially.
These multi-storied old houses are absolutely stunning, decorated as they currently are with lots of flowers. It’s the details of gold and bamboo railings that create such a romantic and exotic atmosphere. A little later in the day, these kiosks will be open for business and selling all sorts of souvenirs. Many of the shops in this area are of course dedicated to the tourists and there are no shortage of trinkets and goodies to entice visitors.
Huxingting Teahouse
Walking around and exploring the bazaar, you will undoubtedly find yourself on a bridge over a pond. This is part of the Huxington Teahouse where Queen Elizabeth II once enjoyed a wee cup of tea. A gorgeous old building, and in fact is the oldest teahouse in Shanghai. After reading reviews however, I would not suggest you enter for a cuppa, but rather find another venue, no matter how romantic this one looks.
If you are already planning to visit Yuyuan Gardens or the City God Temple, you will be right beside this area, Old Town Shanghai. To see these historical structures is indeed just what I wanted and I’m in awe of their beauty. Yes, the whole area has been commercialized and geared for tourism, but the bones of history are still there and worth every step to explore.
