This part of the city was actually not on my radar, but after doing a little research, I find myself really curious as to what remains. Like The Bund, this was one of the extraterritoriality locations in the city and remained so for just under 100 years. An area, governed by France, I have to wonder what it looks like. Ooo the romantic French Concession in Shanghai is calling my name.
Location
The French settlement in Shanghai began in 1849 and lasted until 1943. Like the British and later the Americans, they were given a parcel of land to govern and reside in. The Chinese government did this to contain the foreigners to a designated location. The French settlement was located south of the British one, on a narrow strip of land that was later expanded.
Because the area covers several kilometers there are a few metro options that will deposit visitors into the area they want to see. For the Tianzifang arts & crafts area take Line 9 to Dapuqiao Station. For beautiful tree lined streets and architecture take Line 10 to Shanghai Library Station. And for the historical main strip with malls and café’s take Line 1, 10 or 12 to South Shaanxi Station.
Trees
This feature alone creates the vibe of the French Concession for me. Street after street lined with these massive plane trees is such a gorgeous sight. I instantly fall into a relaxed gait and begin to notice the cute little boutique coffee shops, trying to decide which one to partake of. 😁 The trees not only provide shade, but bring nature inside the city, something that is sorely lacking from regular streets in Shanghai.
Alleys
From these main streets are gated alleys filled with what was the residences for the French expats. This architectural style is called shikumen housing and consists of long rows of brick townhouse homes. Many have been painted with lovely soft pastels and are filled with the locals’ laundry, bicycles and outdoor seating.
One in particular I wander down remains unpainted. I am instantly drawn by the stone detailing I can see around the doors. A male with an infant stands at the end of the alley and I approach quietly. His home is one of these old ones, just around the corner. He turns and we smile at each other. I tell him this architecture is absolutely beautiful, a real gem. The man has the biggest grin and keeps nodding, a look of pride across his face.
He seems to have no issue with me admiring and photographing the details around the exterior of his home. What I would give to have a look deeper inside! I move on and in my slow travel fashion, head up and down streets trying to absorb all of this history. Its really only 150 years at the oldest, but so unique and precious as it has been preserved, when it so easily could have been demolished.
Tianzifang
A labyrinth of tiny alleys in the district that has now become a hub of arts and crafts, boutique shops, café’s, bars and restaurants. Tianzifang is where artists found inexpensive studio space in the 1990’s and the area has grown from that. The day I visit it is packed and I’m sure this is the general nature of the area, as its so small. But wow, what a fun location to dig around and see unique and cute items.
There are many clothing stores, some jewellery and trinkets too. I have already walked about 20,000 steps today so I peruse rather quickly, these shops full of unique items.
I’m feeling a little peckish and definitely thirsty in this late afternoon heat so I search for a spot to have a beer and perhaps a nibble. Finding a place that looks nice and out of the way, I take a seat. After 10 minutes or so I am still not served, so I pick up and carry on. That’s ok, it happens as a solo traveller, and gives me a little respite anyways.
Bakeries
One thing I have noticed frequently in the French Concession are the bakeries. And readers will know by now I am a sucker for the humble croissant and any pastry in fact. I duck into this one called ‘For Long’. The décor is simple and elegant vintage, I love it. At the centre of the room is one single case full of colourful macaroons. And along a beautiful wooden table near the window at the sidewalk is a selection of cakes. That’s it, that’s all they sell and the shop is packed.
A few streets away I see this huge bakery that I quickly peruse and another one not far away. If it were morning time, you bet your bottoms I would have dashed in and selected a goodie or three to enjoy with a coffee under one of these magnificent old trees.
The French Concession is a must see in Shanghai. Not an area to rush about, instead one to spend hours, slowly wandering the streets, ducking into alleys, sitting at quirky café’s that perhaps only have two tables under a tree. The romantic nature, flippant and flirty vibes of this district are such a change from the rest of the city. If I ever visit Shanghai again, this might just be the area I try and reside in.
