Having traversed Uzbekistan back to its capital city via the high speed Afrosiyob train, its more trains we are discovering today. What was off limits to photographers up until 2018, is now available to record and show the world. Time travel underground on the metro in Tashkent with me and let’s see what’s down here!
Why Off-limits?
These former USSR metro stations were considered military facilities. They were to be used as nuclear fallout shelters, hence no photography. In 2018 that designation changed and now, even though there are guards at each one, both down on the platforms and up top, visitors are free to photograph to their hearts content. And you may wonder, well what’s so special about a metro station? That’s what I’m going to show you. 😁
With four metro-lines now, the Red and Blue lines are the two original ones. These opened in 1977 and were Central Asia’s first underground metro system! Each station has its own unique theme and that’s what makes them unique and special. Most of the trains are original from that period too, so cool! I’ll show you my favourite stations now.
Kosmonavtlar (blue)
Can you guess what the theme is from the Russian name? Its cosmonauts, outer space! This one is my favourite its just so unique. Once down onto the platform, the walls are covered in large blue tiles and inset at regular intervals are these beautiful ethereal depictions. Each one is different and showcases the history of soviet space travel including the first soviet man and woman in space.
Columns are covered with deep smoky midnight blue tiles and the entire effect is magical. I went in at Chorsu Bazaar station, and this is the first one on my itinerary. Oh I should mention too. An official helped me purchase a ticket because I couldn’t figure out the machines. I paid 3k som or $0.35 CAD and if I don’t go thru an exit, I can stay down in the metro system for as long as I want, travelling from station to station!
O’zbekiston (blue)
The second stop on my list is this one. What catches my eye right away are the massive light fixtures and those colourful mosaics at each end of the platform. A perfect example of soviet engineering, this station feels particularly wide and low. The white walls and their floral décor provide a subtle ambiance in the vase space.
And what pulls into this station, but an original train! Absolutely marvellous that these are running and seemingly in perfect condition.
Alisher Navoi (blue)
This station is named after a poet and artist from the 15th century and a dominate shade of turquoise fills the space. The ceiling is a series of decorative domes that represent Islamic architecture and the entire station feels ornate and elaborate. Take the escalator up, and before the exit doors are walls with more decoration similar to down below.
Gafur Gulom (blue)
I really enjoyed seeing Gafur Gulom for its stylized mosaic art that adorns the walls. These pieces are large and remind me of retro images elsewhere from the 60’s-70’s. Large columns covered in deep blue decorative tile give the station a mysterious feeling.
Paxtakor (red)
This one is definitely on my list for the colours alone. Big and bold decorative mosaic tile decorates the entire length of the platform. The design represents cotton, an important industry for the country both historically and currently. The columns are covered in cream coloured marble with dark filigree tops and give the station a very grounded look.
Mustaqilliq Maidoni (red)
Considered a grand station and absolutely aglow with lights when they are all on, is this one. It was constructed using marble from the Kizil Kum desert in Uzbekistan. Together with the multitude of chandeliers, if they were all turned on, would be incredible! The station has the feeling of a palace and is truly a picture of Soviet grandeur and opulence.
Hamid Alimjon (red)
Another station named after a poet, this one I found very charming. Its one of the quieter stations, and has quite a large and shallow arch. There are incredible large blue floral mosaics at regular intervals.
The dim space is lit with these absolutely marvellous and huge light figures very reminiscent of an art deco style. The thickness of the glass in each petal is astonishing and it is apparent they are all hand made.
Each of the stations on the Red and Blue lines is worth investigating if you have the time while you are visiting Tashkent. This metro system is a gem, a time warp of Soviet style, architecture and ingenuity. Some stations can get extremely busy, particularly the ones where lines cross over. Avoid morning and lunch rush hours and you should have a unique and special experience here in the capital city of Uzbekistan.
