I am fortunate to have been befriended by my Airbnb host Fotima. We exchanged several messages in which she had asked if she could discuss her Airbnb’s with me. I was a host myself at one time, so she wanted to get my opinion. One day Fotima offered to take me to the beautiful Imam Al-Bukhari complex in Samarkand, a brand-new mosque. Of course, I said yes and this is how the day transpired.
Brief History
In the year 870, an important scholar named Muhammed ibn ismail Al-Bukhari was buried in a small cemetery near Samarkand. He was 60 years old and had spent his life compiling hadiths, which now form the second most important document for Muslims after the Qur’an.
A small mausoleum once stood in this place for centuries, containing his tomb. In the 1990’s a more modern mosque was constructed, one that could accommodate 12,000 pilgrims daily. That structure has now been replaced by this truly massive and incredibly impressive complex.
The Complex
Opened just over a month ago by the President of Uzbekistan, The Imam Al-Bukhari Complex is on another scale in every aspect of its being. It can accommodate 65,000 pilgrims daily. It includes a mosque, museum, 45 hectares of grounds and an Iwan constructed using 154 carved stone pillars. There are four minarets each reaching 75 metres tall and 14 domes. All of this is surrounding the most precious structure. The mausoleum of Imam-Al Bukhari.
As I approached the mausoleum, people were praying at any gap in which they could see the marble tomb inside. Its an incredibly holy and special site and I feel lucky to have seen it this day.
The ceiling inside the vast Iwan (a vaulted space walled on 3 sides and open to the courtyard), has been painted in the most glorious array of colours and patterns, I could not stop looking up into those heights. And each of those pillars, that look like wood, is in fact stone.
This day the mosque itself was not open to the public; there were simply too many people coming to see this new and very important place. Made of marble, I can only imagine what the interior of that largest dome looks like.
Let’s Eat!
Fotima, being as kind and hospitable as you can imagine, has invited me over for a traditional Uzbek meal! What an absolute treat and a very special occasion for me. We drive back to her home, the ride taking about half an hour. Inside I am guided up the central staircase to the upper floor where the dining room has been prepared. Her lovely husband has been home all day, preparing the feast we are about to enjoy.
The table is laden with beautiful and ornate tableware and looks gorgeous. Family arrives, Fotima’s two sons, their wives, the 6 grandchildren, cousins and lovely grandma! This amazing lady used to be a French teacher for 40 years! Fotima, her husband and grandma don’t speak English, but her children and their spouses and cousins do, so this is how we are communicating.
I am seated beside Grandma and the meal begins.
What’s for Lunch?
First, we are having samsa. These are savory pastries, one is filled with greens, a mixture of spinach and mint, and the other with meat. Both are delicious! Of course there is Samarkand bread too, a must at every single meal.
Next comes the star of the show, and what husband has been preparing for the past 12 hours. It’s the national dish called Plov, and is the best thing I have tasted in so very long. Made of rice, but a very particular texture, the beef on top has been cooking and tenderizing for hours. Inside are raisins, chickpeas and yellow peppers (I think). The entire dish is absolutely scrumptious and I can’t stop eating it.
The best part? One plate is served between two people, so traditionally you share a plate of food with your neighbour. I find this incredibly touching and am sharing my plate with Grandma. 🥰 There are other small dishes of items that are consumed now along with the Plov. These include fresh bright vegetables, sorrel leaves, stems of garlic that I accidentally take too big a bite of. 😂 A light green root veg that I have never seen before. This we dip into the yogurt type substance in another dish.
Drinks
I began the meal with sparkling water and a fruit flavoured pop. Once food arrived beer and vodka appeared. Not wanting to get sloshed, I opted for the beer. Grandma has joined me in that decision. But what is so fun and cute is this.
Fotima’s husband is having vodka shots. Each time he lifts his glass, Grandma and I must also raise ours to ‘cheer’ and have a swig. It’s the loveliest connection with hubby and always makes everyone smile.
Dessert
On the way back to Fotima’s beautiful home, we stopped in at a bakery. I was in awe, not only of the selection of goodies, but how incredible they all looked. We ended up purchasing a selection and this is what we are having for dessert, along with two beautiful plates of fresh fruit.
The sweet treats in Uzbekistan are on another level. The cakes and pastries I have tasted thus far, rival anything I have tried in the world. A new addiction is forming and its Uzbek bakery items.
After hours of conversation, lots of curiosity centred around my full-time travel lifestyle, smiles and laughter its time for me to go home. I am sad to leave this precious family who all live together in this large house. I feel like the luckiest person in the world today, and that is all thanks to beautiful Fotima.
