What I was not expecting when I began to explore this historical city, was the absolutely plethora of wares I would see. From metalwork, to textiles and weaving, painting, engraving and wood carving, prepare to be amazed. The superb art and handicrafts of Bukhara are plentiful and irresistible.
Brief History
The city of Bukhara is located on the historical Silk Road and has been a trading hub almost from its inception. Markets sprang up centuries ago and shortly after that, currency traders, travellers and merchants.
For hundreds of years Bukhara has been the place where goods arrive from distant lands, trade hands and leave, bound for even further ports. I knew I was going to see the structures of this ancient city; I had no idea I would see artists and their creations.
Where to Go
The answer is simply everywhere in the central historical core. Literally everywhere. You cannot walk around this area without being bombarded in the best of ways, with handicrafts. Inside every madrasa, many mosques, all the trading domes. Lining every street, near every hotel, the crafts are plentiful unlike anything you have seen before. Get your body into the hub of Bukhara old town, and you will be surrounded.
Textiles
I am going to begin with textiles. I have a soft spot for all things fabric and I have been completely overwhelmed by the beauty that passes before my eyes. Embroidery, gobs of it and full of colour. Antique pieces, vintage and new, its everywhere. Many of the items contain the image of a pomegranate called ‘anor’ in Uzbekistan.
These are used frequently as they symbolize fertility and abundance and are a way to bring these blessings into everyday life. It is also a symbol that survived the soviet era and now represents resilience. Visitors will see it absolutely everywhere, in every craft.
Carpets and rugs are part of the textile category and shops are abundant in Bukhara. Beautiful old and new gilams, the short hair or knotted carpets, are my favourite. Made of wool or silk their natural dyes are vivid and patterns complex.
The Chapan
A chapan, worn at the New Year called Navruz, with the traditional pattern called ‘bound cloud’ the colours of which are sublime. I see these all around and cannot resist. I never ever purchase anything when I travel. For one, I simply have no room in my luggage but I also don’t have the funds. After travelling for 3.5 years full-time, it’s here I break that rule. I can’t resist a chapan.
It takes me almost two days of looking to decide on a colour, pattern and vendor. I scouted out three sellers who were charging 100som or $12 CAD. And eventually narrowed it down. It’s a beautiful cotton robe that I will wear at the beach, to cover my butt when travelling to a Muslim country, and just to remember this incredible place I find myself in.
Engraving
Not only will visitors see all of these handicrafts, but many artists are practicing their craft right before your eyes. It’s wonderful to wander slowly and stop to watch these pieces coming to life. One such are the engravers. They begin with a copper or brass plate firmly embedded it into what looks like tar. This keeps it in place while they work.
They chisel away at the metal and create intricate designs that are mesmerizing. Some of the finished pieces are painted or enameled, others are left shiny and plain. Many of these craftsmen have certificates, recognition plaques and more, hangings in their shops and are true artists of their craft.
Metalwork
While we discuss engraving, there are other metal products being produced. One in particular is utterly charming and was only brought back into practice in the 1990’s. They are scissors made by the blacksmiths, in the shape of birds! Predominately storks, these exquisite little tools are used for embroidery and other handicrafts.
Pottery
So much beautiful pottery, oh if I had a home, I would be filling it with dishware and décor from Bukhara. Vibrant glazed plates of every size and a tea set would be perfect.
Jewellery
Gobs and gobs, walls dripping with necklaces both antique and modern silver. Bangles, bracelets, earrings and incredible stone pieces oh my. I have to walk past hastily for if I stop, I would purchase a pair of those earrings with the blue stones for certain!
Everything Else
From traditional bread making stamps to spices, woodwork, chess sets and fur, there is such a wide variety of goods available.
Chor Minor
I have decided to include this structure here because of the shopping nearby. Just outside of the central core, especially the area I showcased in the previous post is the Chor Minor. This unique and odd shaped structure is actually a gate built in 1807 and served as the entrance to a now destroyed madrasa.
Unusual are the four towers with blue tiled domes. Inside the large central dome is now a souvenir store filled with vintage textiles and jewellery. Shoppers will find some really unique pieces here, especially embroidery and garments.
Chor Minor Antiques
Just across the courtyard, is another shop, one that stopped me in my tracks. It opened its façade while I was looking at Chor Minor so I didn’t notice it at first. Up and inside this massive space, is a collection of mostly soviet era items.
These range from uniforms to documents and papers, postcards, kitchenware, coins and bills, carpets, household items and so so much more. Really anything and everything that would have been from the 70ish years that the soviets ruled this land. The objects are completely fascinating for me to see, having very little exposure to this.
I was particularly intrigued with the ephemera, teapots and regular household items such and clocks and decorative pieces. The sheer volume of items in this in this antique shop is incredible.
Save your pocket money for your trip to Bukhara, I can guarantee you will buy at least some little trinket here. Looking for souvenirs? This is the place. Spend time with these lovely artists showcasing their talents and wares. Buy a piece of Islamic calligraphy to hang on the wall. A little silver ring, or a garment that will bring you happy memories every time you see and wear it.
