Looking for an activity to do with my daughter outside of the centre of the city, research landed me on this historical fishing village. It didn’t take much more than a few photos to convince me that this needed boots on the ground investigation. This is what to expect on your visit to the beautiful village of Blankenese Treppenviertel in Hamburg Germany. Hop on the S1-SBaun and it will take you directly there.
Brief History
The earliest settlement in this area on the edge of the Elbe River was in 1060 when a provost’s residence and a castle were constructed. In 1640 the land came under the rule of Dutch kings and remained that way for the next 200 years, an independent town.
The villages scenic value was slowly recognized by nearby wealthy merchants from Hamburg. What was predominately small fishing huts and cottages quickly became a place for grand villas and mansions. In 1938 the town was officially merged into greater Hamburg.
The Treppenviertel
What makes Blankenese unique is a picturesque area called the Treppenviertel. A steep hillside covered in a maze of over 5,000 stairs, creeping passages and dim little lanes. Following these stairs every which way, visitors will see the most charming houses, pretty gardens and amazing river views.
From the Train Station
Once you are off the train, head thru the centre of the town towards the water. The single main street is dotted with boutique shops, cafés and restaurants most of the way. You will eventually reach a street that is quite hilly lined with colourful stately residences on both sides. From here is where you will now begin the leg workout, the Treppenviertel. Head uphill first, this takes you to a viewing platform where the provosts residence used to be. There are some lovely old houses in this area but the real gems are down below.
Downstairs
Now returning to the larger hilly street called Blankenese HauptstrauBe, you will begin the labyrinth at any number of openings. I encourage you to spend time walking in all directions when you reach an ‘intersection’ of paths. The houses and views that pop up around each corner are special and such a delight.
Thatched-roof Houses
One of the most enchanting things to see in the Treppenviertel are the half timbre, thatched-roof houses. The oldest dates from 1570! These were the captains’ cottages and they are beautiful nestled into the lush hillside.
Many have been lovingly restored with details and colours suited for the time period. Their gardens even at this time of year and on a rainy day, offer colour and texture. I must admit to spending most of my time on a treasure hunt for these houses.
Lighthouse
If you have walked down to the water now past the old hotel, you will notice a decidedly modern structure. This is the lower lighthouse, the Unterfeuer. At 42 metres tall, it forms a critical part of assisting vessels that are navigating their way up the Elbe River to the Port of Hamburg. Stand out at its base and turn around for a picturesque view of Blankenese on the hillside.
I can’t imagine, if this little town is this gorgeous on a completely overcast and rainy day, how extraordinary it must be in the sunshine. Well worth the single train journey from the city centre, taking less than an hour to reach. There are numerous places to sit and enjoy a coffee and delectable German sweet treat, to complete the outing. Blankenese Treppenviertel needs to be on your list of things to do in Hamburg.
