I have really lucked out on the selection of the neighbourhood I find myself immersed in. When selecting my hotel, besides price, which is almost always the guiding factor for my frugal budget, it was location. I knew on this first visit, I would need somewhere more gentle, less big city. The charming district of Wenshufang in Chengdu China is just that, simply enchanting.
Brief History
Located in the Qingyang District and beside the ancient Wenshu Monastery, this historical block has been preserved and protected. In the Qing Dynasty the temple became an important spiritual destination attracting thousands of worshippers. As a result of that influx of people, an entire neighbourhood developed to support their needs.
The tiny alleys and narrow lanes of Wenshufang filled with merchants, markets, tea houses and accommodation. An area of 300,000 square metres encompasses all that is here, with a core section renovated and rebuilt to showcase the culture and Sichuan architecture. Today more than 5 million visitors come to Wenshufang annually to experience the beauty, history, atmosphere and food culture in this unique part of the city.
Alleys
What was once small and narrow alleys, some hardly wider than a wheelbarrow, today have been preserved to highlight Chengdu history. All along these walls are displays featuring examples of what life was like centuries ago. Don’t miss Zhaixingzi Alley, it’s the smallest in the area. If you need some direction, have a look at various maps that are provided to give visitors an idea of the size of the neighbourhood and where to go.
This part of Wenshufang is pedestrian only and if you want to really enjoy and have some space, arrive earlier in the morning or later, around dinner time. At the peak of the day, these narrow lanes can get completely jammed for the crowds materialize almost out of nowhere.
Architecture
Absolutely stunning, this is called Western Sichuan and the details are serene and exotic. These multi-story wood framed buildings are designed with the climate in mind. Wide sweeping eaves protect the white walls from rain and mud. Windows are covered in a lattice to provide shade while allowing light to filter through to the interior.
A central courtyard is common in these homes and can be seen in this incredible example. Now a jewellery store selling mostly silver and tea sets, visitors can wander through its various rooms and delight in all they see. Many of the rooms have been preserved like a museum, including a bedroom, den and library.
Tea Houses
One of the most popular things to do while visiting Wenshufang is partake of the cultural tea experience. This part of the city is absolutely filled with tea houses; they line many of the streets. I decided to sit down and have this traditional experience at one near my hotel. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the name is, but it is located on a main street with that red teapot shaped sign.
The experience was beautiful and detailed. My server brought the tray of tea items to my table and performed a ritual or sorts. After she placed the dry tea into the little pot, still without water, she clasped it in one hand and thumped it several times into the palm of her other hand while remaining bowed and whispering some words.
Hot water was then poured into the pot as well as my cup to warm it in preparation of the tea. She then returned with several small dishes filled with tasty snacks including a bowl of fruit. To note here in China, the tomato is in all mixed fruit cups and treated as a fruit. Cost of this deluxe experience is ¥99 or $20 CAD.
Street Food
All around the Wenshufang neighbourhood are vendors selling street foods. These are usually a bicycle cart that has been transformed to create a small area for providing a single type of food. I try several and am intrigued and impressed by them all. The first are these fried balls, that look like doughnuts but they are made from rice flour. The balls are coated in a thin layer of sugar, but it hardens to a teeth shattering shell, then a light coating of white sesame seeds is applied. A delicious hot and crunchy snack to enjoy.
Rice Cakes
A cultural heritage dish, what the translated sign tells me, is this steamed rice cake. Inside a tiny bamboo steamer, white rice flour is placed, then a dollop of what I think is red bean paste. A dome of additional flour is created and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The bamboo lid is applied and the little basket is placed on the steam release spout of a pressure cooker!
It is that steam, being forced through the bamboo basket, that supplies moisture enough to ‘cook’ the rice and form a solid ball. Sitting on the edge of a flower bed, just behind the vendor I gobbled one of these down. Not the most flavourful thing to eat, but interesting nonetheless. Cost is ¥10 or $2 CAD for three! I gave the other two away to an elderly lady that I passed on the next block.
Fermented Doufu
Fermented doufu, or moldy tofu. Yes, I absolutely had to try that. These blocks of tofu have been inoculated with a mold and left in a tepid space; it grows quickly and looks incredible. From the bamboo mat, squares are removed and placed into the wok to fry. Once golden brown, they are popped into a little paper bowl, and sprinkled with three types of brown powder (no idea what that is), scallions, and chili flakes for the locals.
Eaten with a toothpick this snack is often referred to as Chinese cheese, for it has that texture and flavour of a somewhat sour cheese. I did eat a few blocks, but that was the limit for my palate I’m afraid.
Bakery
There is one place that I have to tell you about because it is historically relevant. On Jiao Yuan Gongshuo Street, just down from the large entrance gate, is a state-run bakery. It’s the one with the blue sign not the red one. Every day from morning to night, there is a line of mostly locals, waiting to get served. It can be crowded and chaotic looking but the wait is worth it.
This bakery used to supply all of the baked goods to the last reigning emperor, it’s been here that long. Locals know this and are loyal purchasers to this day. Called Wensuyuan Pastry Shop, simply point and select or just wing it. The popular items for foreign tourists are the custard cake and for locals the meat-floss cakes and egg yolk pastries.
Night Time
If you have the opportunity, don’t miss seeing Wenshufang neighbourhood at night. Its simply magical. These old and intricate wooden buildings are lit up; colourful lanterns hang from rafters and swing in the gentle warm breeze. Street food vendors are out and about with their little carts, serving customers a snack or quick dinner. The pedestrian streets can be virtually empty, a stark contrast to the day time. Walk with ease, find a restaurant to enjoy dinner. Its such a gorgeous place to experience and romantic as all heck.
I’m feeling so lucky that this is where my intuition brought me to on my very first trip to China. This neighbourhood reminds me a little of Vietnam and I think that is helping tremendously in making me feel instantly comfortable. Charming streets, filled with tea shops, boutique stores, eateries and ambiance all combine to make this one of the most enchanting destinations within the city of Chengdu.
