If you happen to be in Nizwa at dawn on a Friday morning, you must seek out this event. An extraordinary and authentic experience that will leave you in a state of incredulity. I was not prepared for what I witnessed, but am I ever glad I attended. The amazing Nizwa Goat Souq & livestock auction is not to be missed!
When & Where
Every Friday morning from the crack of dawn until mid morning at the large pen located at the Nizwa Souqs. Google maps link here. It’s completely free to attend and I’ll tell you everything you need to know.
Dawn
I woke in darkness so I could be at the souq before the sun rose. The sky was just beginning to lighten when I left my hotel. I had scouted out the pen the day prior so I knew where I needed to go. During the day time, this is simply a large open space full of gravel and metal poles.
However, come Friday, it is transformed into the most lively and chaotic place. When I first arrived, there were a smattering of goats already tied up and the owners visiting with each other. Quite soon though, trucks were pulling into the huge parking lot adjacent to the souqs.
The smaller pickups were full of goats and larger trucks contained cattle. These were offloaded for perhaps the next hour. This is part of the event that you don’t want to miss. Animals of all shapes and sizes are being pushed, pulled, carried and chased up the ramp and into the pen.
A young man sees me taking photos of his baby lamb and plunks it right into my open arms! I am absolutely thrilled and quickly hand off my phone to a stranger so they can catch a photo of this precious moment for me. What a boon to hold that sweet baby, soft as the dickens it was.
Parking Lot
Head right down and into the parking lot now to see the action. It seems like a lot of business is being done before the actual auction even begins. I can see goats being inspected by hands reaching in through the bars and squeezing the hips. Some buyers walk away and other stay.
The atmosphere is getting loud now, goats are bleating, the adults loudly and the babies high pitched and almost a squeal. Workers are busy collecting the goats being lifted over the sides of the trucks into waiting arms. Men are haggling over prices and some voices get heated, hands a waving to and fro. It’s a wonderful sight to see! I walk around the trucks, catching the eyes of the animals both large and small. Watching these men intently as they interact and intermingle with each other and the animals.
The Pen
This large otherwise empty space is now full of animals and people. I hear a loud announcement around 7am I think and although I cannot understand it, I take heed that something important is coming. Walking around the animals now, it is crowded and full of locals. Most of the people are men but there are some women and they are quite lively. There are lots of kids too, they are really cute and one father waves that its okay for me to take a photo.
The variety of goats is amazing! I see large ones and babies. Some with long fur and others with very short dark fur. Some have spots and others are monotone. One has a big rounded head and nose! And others have such long horns, curled or not.
The Centre
In the center of the pen is a small stage type area. It was empty when I arrived, however now I have turned around and its packed full of people, mostly tourists. A large circle has formed outside of this central area and it is predominately locals. Needing to see what is going on, I head into the thick of it.
I reach the centre and an empty space has been forming, almost like a donut. Realizing I cannot find space on the centre part, I crouch down with the local men along the inner ring. I have no idea what’s about to happen and am completely transfixed with the scene unfolding in front of me.
The Auction
Before long, a male walks into the empty space with one single goat and begins to yell. Not a second later a second male enters the ring and does the same. Before two minutes pass, the space in front of me has been filled with men and their animals, all yelling.
The auction has begun! Each owner, walks his animals through, that he is trying to sell. He is yelling out a starting price. If a buyer is interested, he will wave over the seller and the inspection begins. This is where I am fortuitous with where I am situated for the event. I am right beside the buyers who are crouched down on either side of me. The goats are brought over for them to have a closer look. First and always, the hips are squeezed. Nine times out of ten, the animals are waved off at this point.
If the hip squeeze is successful, then the teeth are inspected. If both things pass the grade, then the haggling begins!
The Bartering
Now at this point in the auction, it feels like all heck has broken loose. Animals have crazy eyes, men are yelling and some are gesturing with vigor! Angry faces ensue, voices get louder, animals are bucking, and here is this little old Canadian gal right in the thick of it!
Absolutely marvellous! Once I begin to get swamped and cannot see, I stand up. More and more men crowd into the auction space and the scene becomes entirely overwhelming. I begin to notice details, my brain trying to manage the anxiety I am feeling. A goat without the top of its head! The beautiful embroidery of this Bedouins cap. At this point I make my way out of the throng so I can breathe and decompress a little.
The Aftermath
Walking through the pen now, is a great time to see the animals, especially the cows. They have all been brought inside from the trucks and seem the least happy to be there. A lot of haggling is going on privately; the space is full of people and animals.
The sun has risen now, the air thick with dust and smells. Its time to make my escape. I leave the scene, my mind absolutely racing, trying to make sense of what I have just witnessed. I can’t believe how lucky I am to have experienced a local livestock auction. Every moment, from start to finish has been one of wonderment and chaos. What a cool thing to see!
