I have been exploring the mountain side region of the city every other day. Hiking up Mount Trebevic has quickly become a favourite pastime of mine. On two separate occasions I had the good fortune to spend some precious moments with locals. Two beautiful singular acts of kindness in Sarajevo have renewed my faith in humans.
The Farmer
One day, I was walking across the mountain, zigzagging my way through the maze of small lanes in an effort to reach a park. On one of these lanes, I noticed a vegetable garden with a bounty of edibles ripening under the warm sunshine.
I bent down to take some pictures of the bright orange pumpkins, fluffy ears of corn and pale green peppers. When I looked up, I noticed a man, waving at me and yelling something. I think he was telling me to skedaddle because he thought I was picking and helping myself to his vegetables.
In an effort to ease his mind, I cautiously approached him and showed him the photos on my phone. I waved my hands across his plot of land, trying to express how beautiful I thought his garden was. Not understanding a word of my English, he seemed to calm.
Into the Greenhouse
A few moments later, he beckoned me into his greenhouse. There this big burly man proceeded to show me his tomatoes, chard and cucumbers. He was so very proud of his bounty and I thought it was marvellous.
A moment later, he reached for my shopping bag, that I had been carrying balled up in one hand. I was planning on picking up some groceries on the route back to my Airbnb. Before I knew what he was doing, he was picking those same tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and chard and filling my tote!
I was so overwhelmed by his generosity, I quickly typed into google translate, a huge message of thanks and gratitude for his kindness. This I read to him in utterly broken and atrocious Bosnian, for which I was not one bit embarrassed.
His kindness touched me so deeply. How beautiful, for a human to share food with another human. Complete strangers, meeting on a mountainside in Bosnia and not being able to speak nary a word of the others language. I am beyond grateful for this man’s kindness and big heart.
The Shepherdess
The first time I hiked down Mount Trebevic, I saw these ruins through the brush and wanting to explore, poked my way in, and had a quick look around. I was frightened of who might be living in there, human or animal, so did not spend long.
The second time I found myself back at the ruins, I noticed sheep! How delightful. I was hoping to capture a few photos of the pastoral scene, but I was extremely nervous that they might be accompanied by a male human. I kept my distance, and managed a few photographs.
The third time I passed by these abandoned structures, the sheep were there again. This time, I got a little closer, but not by much. As I made my way back up to the road, I noticed their handler. It was a female! A shepherdess!
I approached her slowly, expressing my admiration of her beautiful sheep. I have no Bosnian so could only hope that she understood my hand gestures. She was really lovely, standing in the shade and letting her flock wander through the trees.
Candy
A few moments later, after talking to each other in our respective languages and not knowing what the other was saying, she reached into her pocket. Out she pulled two candies and held aloft, in the palm of her open hand.
I looked into her eyes, and she nodded for me to take one. Putting one hand on my heart, I accepted the mint one, hoping I had not chosen her favourite. I was so utterly amazed by this simple yet sweet gesture I could have cried.
Back Again
I have not forgotten her and her gentle spirit. Hoping to return the kindness, today I hiked up to those abandoned homes for the fourth time. I could hear the lead sheep and his bell dangling in the distance, so knew she was around.
Standing for five minutes in the shade, I scanned the landscape and eventually spotted the sheep on a small rocky peak that I had climbed previously. I approached quietly, not wanting to startle the animals.
There she sat, enjoying her breakfast in the shade while the sheep and goats foraged in the bushes. I gave an audible ‘Dobre Jutro’ and she turned and saw me. Not wanting to disturb her respite and meal, I held my hand aloft, with a small bag of candies I had brought to give to her this day.
She didn’t want to accept them at first, but I really wanted to repay her kindness. What happened instead I have mixed feelings about and I’ll explain why.
Breaking Bread
This beautiful woman, did take my proffered candy and placed it on the ground at her feet. She then reached into her bag and pulled out a large hunk of bread. Breaking off a chunk she passed it to me. I absolutely did not want to take her food or breakfast from her, in fact it broke my heart to take it, but I did not want to offend her.
She motioned that she had made the bread herself. She then reached down again and ripped off a chunk of cheese to which she handed me as well. I was so overcome with her kindness. All I could do was hold my heart, and thank her profusely, ‘hvala, hvala, hvala’.
I turned on my camera and motioned for her and I to have a photo together eating our bread. She was thrilled when she saw the image come up on my phone of the two of us together on the side of a mountain, eating her bread. Her smile burst forth and I captured these images.
I feel terrible that I had taken her food, her sustenance for the day, but I would have felt worse if I had have offended her by not taking it. The choice is a difficult one in the moment.
I will never forget these two encounters. The most basic thing we can do as humans is share food. It has been happening since time immortal and will continue to do so. Break bread, break fast, and to do so with another human, a stranger is both courageous, incredibly and simply an act of love.
