I was lucky to have arrived in Ubud in time to see a most holy and mystical event. That of the creation, procession and cremation ceremony of the eldest son of the late king of Bali, Tjokorda Bagus Santaka. Being here during this time has cast a spell of magic into the air. My witness to the Royal cremation ceremony in Ubud was nothing short of shocking. This is a long and thorough account.
The Pelebon
This is the highest order of cremation ceremonies, reserved for the royal family. It is a Hindu ritual practised in Bali, and allows the spirit to free itself from the material world and travel into heaven.
Tjokorda Bagus Santaka passed away on February 2, 2024. As is the norm, he was buried quickly and unceremoniously. The high priest has selected an auspicious date for this cremation. On that day, the body is removed from the ground and bones are placed inside a coffin.
Preparation
The prep work for the cremation ceremony is intense. For many many days’ prior, a huge tower was being constructed on the street, outside of the palace.
In addition, there are several sarcophagi built, mostly in the shape of bulls for males. The prominent one for Tjokorda Bagus Santaka, was a massive purple creature. There was also a red bull, black bull and black dragon. The men in the community worked tirelessly to create these large forms.
A non-figural sarcophagus was made for an aunt who was also being cremated this day.
Morning of the Cremation
On the day, I walked down to the palace early, at 8am. I found quite a few people strolling about, but nothing like I would experience a few hours later. I was able to approach the 25-meter-high tower, take photo’s and look at the intricate and bountiful offerings that were placed in front.
One such offering, on the ground included a dead bird and so many other unique and fascinating items.
Two large boxes in front of this were filled to the brim with offerings including whole roasted pigs. Intricate, large and elaborate decorations were made out of what looked like the fat and skin of pigs.
10am
I walked back to the site around 10am as I had been informed that the ceremony would begin at 11. As I neared the palace, I could hardly believe the amount of people about. The streets were of course closed and I could walk freely down the middle only. The sidewalks were already being lined with visitors finding a spot to watch the upcoming event.
I found a place, squished into a nook and up against a German group, who were beside the altar created for the priests. Just as I arrived, the two high priests began to pray over the tower and all those assembled in front.
The high priests were utterly fascinating. Ringing bells, chanting, repeating prayers, flicking water picked up with plumeria flowers out into the crowd.
11am
As I watched, prominent people began to arrive, they were crowded around and many photographs were taken.
Some of these same people, the men, came over to the backside of where the priests were at and were given a Hindu blessing. It was incredibly moving and interesting to watch so closely.
After I had been stepped on too much, had my face elbowed and glasses knocked about, I decided to reposition myself. I walked through the crowd to the other side of the street facing the palace. Here I was able to watch the red and black bull being moved into position down the main street.
At this point I was almost fainting, so plunked down onto the sidewalk and put my head between my legs. I had brought a small hand fan, thank God. I stayed like that for 10 minutes. No one spoke to me. After getting to my feet, I walked to a crowded mini mart and purchased a package of salted nuts and an iced tea. Oh gosh, those never tasted so good and sweet.
Back outside I found a new place to stand. This time facing the palace from across the large street.
12pm
At 12:00 a black dragon snake looking figure emerged from the palace doors. It came right towards me, turned and backed itself down the street.
As I watched the goings on, I looked up and saw the canoe shaped coffin being taken up the ramp, to the middle of the tower and tied in so securely with long flowing white lengths of fabric. This was at 12:09.
At 12:23 two beautiful women were carried through the people high above the crowd on thrones. And at 12:24, the tower moved.
The Tower
I had an idea this monstrous thing was going to be carried around, but in my wildest dreams I never thought it would actually happen. Well, it did. With coffin onboard positioned about half way up, tied in tight, and two males seated on top, it left the confines of the scaffolding.
Carried on the shoulders and backs of men, it began to move. There was a short pause, then all hell broke loose. Before I knew it, the men were running, nay charging, with the tower! And straight towards where I was standing!!
There was a huge, crushing, traffic jam of bodies. In an instant, everyone moved backwards as much as they could to avoid being run over. I fell backwards into the crowd as did everyone else around me. All sort of half laying on each other for a split second.
The base of the tower came to a halt, the balcony heaving forward, threatening to dislodge.
The King
I’m not sure if this was him, so I will call him The King (Sukawati?). An elderly gentleman who was so revered, we all lowered ourselves onto our knees, genuflecting and bowed our heads as he was brought close on his throne.
The chair was lowered and he was helped off. I could not see anything more that happened here, me being short, he being short, and the people between us.
After a few minutes and obvious ceremony, some men accompanied The King through the crowd and past me.
The Procession
Now all entities were lined up down the main street, all facing the same way. Music was being played, lots of drums, and cymbals clanging through the air.
I took this pause to re-position myself. By now, I was scared, I was exhausted, boiling hot and I was overwhelmed. It was my plan to return to my flat. I walked down the street a short way, about half way down the procession.
After catching my breath in an empty dirty nook between buildings, I went back out towards the road. There were so many people I could not walk. I stood about 3 feet from the edge of the sidewalk, with my legs pressed up against the motorcycles parked there, facing the street and the purple bull.
Down came the bull.
Purple Bull
The men began to run, with the bull. Just like they had done with the tower. I was blasted back into the crowd, falling backwards on a traffic sign post, that saved me falling to the ground.
The purple bull surged forward once again and now came the musicians.
The Tower Part Two
You guessed it, another meeting with this tower. Men were trying to make a path for the runners, but it was futile. There were just too many people. Thinking I had loads of space, I was faced with this massive tower running full speed down the street. This time I managed to stay up right and watch the whole thing pass by. You wouldn’t believe it if I told you how incredible this was to witness.
The terror of watching that thing sway in the air with people and the coffin on board half way up. The cacophony of noise, so loud, coming from all of the instruments. And everyone was smiling!! This is a joyous occasion. This beloved man, is being released today and sent back to God.
I’m sorry to say I left the procession here. I was done. My shoes were black from being stepped on so many times, I was so incredibly hot and exhausted. My brain was completely overwhelmed and I couldn’t think anymore. Every one of my senses was finished. I made my way through the throngs of people that were now following the procession down the street.
This is a day I will never forget. It wasn’t fun for me as a spectator, it was terrifying. I am so utterly fascinated by what I witnessed and have no explanations for. The small intricacies that I saw the priest do, royal family members make, and the locals take part in. Bali I am lost for words.
