Always on the lookout for interesting places, I found not one but two cemeteries here that are very unique. I like to visit a cemetery in each destination I travel to, usually they are quite similar, but these offered me something different. The two unique and interesting cemeteries in Mostar are worth a visit for sure.
Partisans Memorial Cemetery
Located on the west side of the city, is a strange and wonderful cemetery built in 1965.ย The Partisans Memorial Cemetery was created to honour people who were killed in Yugoslavia during WWII. There are three distinct portions to this one. On the lower level is a fluid shaped section made from concrete, it is here one must start to climb if they are to reach the upper and largest portion.
Also, on the lower level is a massive and flat shallow bowl, that looks like a flying saucer. Normally this is filled up with garbage and debris, but the day I visited, workers were on site, cleaning up and weed whacking this graveyard.
Upper Area
Having been built on a hillside, the upper portion is tiered and extensive. This incredibly odd space is where the grave sites are and was built using tons and tons of concrete. The mid-century styling is amazing and bewildering, I really enjoy seeing those retro shapes and images.
Included in the display are church like arches, sun dials and disks and rays, what I believe was a fountain and so much more. The symbolism is so complex and is a fascinating read.
A most interesting feature are the 810 grave markers, each one is the shape of a puzzle piece.
Sadly, at various points since its conception, this cemetery has suffered from extreme vandalism. During the Bosnian war it was blown up with dynamite. In 2005 the site was fully restored only to see it fall into disrepair shortly thereafter. But most recently in 2022, 700 of the tombstones were smashed to bits by vandals.
Pravoslavno Cemetery
Quite by accident, I stumbled onto this hillside cemetery while exploring the city. Located on the east side of the river, it is not that far from the beautiful Old Orthodox Church of the Virgin Mary. That church, built in 1834 has its own cemetery.
This one, with a beautiful iron front entrance gate, has a single staircase that will take you up the steep incline. Located towards the street are the newer burials and as you ascend the stairs, the graves become older and older.
Socialist Era Tombs
In the middle is a fascinating section of massive and brutal looking tombstones, those of the socialist era. These are huge mounds of concrete, looking quite out of place with the dainty crosses and glossy marble of the later ones.
One of these tombs I could see has clearly been robbed, the back side has a gaping hole, and inside I could see the remains of the wooden coffins smashed to pieces.
Old Orthodox Tombs
The higher one climbs the simpler the grave markers become until they are merely stone crosses. Some are decorated with the most beautiful fonts in Cyrillic, they are such an interesting find.
Unique and fascinating are the pairs of crosses. I have never seen this before and I have visited a lot of cemeteries. More than a few, are a single larger stone cross with a smaller one nestled right up in front, as if being protected by the larger one. What does this symbolize? Is it husband and wife? So very charming and lovely.
Unfortunately, this cemetery is in jeopardy. There is a massive ravine to the left side when climbing up the hill. There are graves that are teetering on this precipice. When I walked to the other side of the ravine and looked back, I could see just how jeopardized these graves were.
If you are a cemetery lover like I am and find them fascinating, you will really enjoy these. The Memorial one will likely be overgrown and full of garbage, as I understand is the norm now. However, persevere, because the site is extraordinary. Again, like almost always, I was the only person at both of these places.
