I am a solo female traveller and as such, I am typically hyper aware of my surroundings. This level of vigilance felt particularly necessary here. Here are my travel tips & safety for visitors to Tangier Morocco.
My Brief History
I have travelled a lot. In my younger years this was usually with a male, a boyfriend or husband at the time. Having been to Marrakesh and experiencing being grabbed in the crowded markets, with my boyfriend at my side, I thought I was prepared for Tangier.
Well, being here solo, has been interesting but not without its challenges. I have been travelling full time for almost two years now, and Tangier was difficult, I’m not going to lie.
Nothing terrible happened, let me make that clear. But a more inexperienced and perhaps younger female might like to know the realities faced while visiting.
So What Did Happen
Exactly what I expected, just a little more persistent and creepier. The worst experience was at the beach. I was approached by two different males. The first one left after a ‘no shukran’. The second one however would not leave me alone.
He first approached as I was setting up my tripod on the sand near the water. He kept insisting I take the biscuits he was offering me. I repeatedly said no. He persisted in trying to strike up conversation to which I only kept replying ‘no shukran’.
Eventually, I sat down on my bag, pretended to be fully engrossed in my phone and completely ignored him. Thankfully he stomped off, throwing his garbage into the sea as he left.
Feeling shaken, I immediately gathered my belongings and headed for the street. I had to walk across the wide beach to get there and kept looking around to make sure he was not following me. I could hear him continue to whistle and try to get my attention to which I ignored. Once I was up on the esplanade beside the road, I felt safe and ducked into a mall for respite.
This was the middle of the day, the beach had others enjoying it, however all were male.
The Second Sitch
The second time I felt more uncomfortable than the usual, was when a shopkeeper approached and stood directly in front of me in the street. He was much too close; I could feel his breath on my face. As I tried to move to either side to walk on, he moved as well, blocking my path.
I immediately raised my hands to the front of my chest and I think my facial expression must have changed in that moment. He jumped backwards, kind of surprised, and started to apologize. I think he realized how uncomfortable he made me feel? Perhaps I’m just reading too much into it. Anyway, it left me feeling vulnerable.
Theft
The third thing that happened within a few hours of my arrival was this. I had placed my bag down in a quiet street, to set up my tripod. I did this only after looking around to make sure there was no one about who I thought might come and grab it. A shop keeper immediately came out of his store and told me to put it back on. That it was not safe. After that, I took heed, and Tangier has been the very first place I have worn my wrist strap for my phone without fail.
The Usual Experiences
In Tangier, and I have experienced this in similar destinations, you are going to get bombarded with people asking you for something. These are almost always male. Whether its to give you directions (never ever follow someone), to take a photo for money in return, to get you to visit their shop or eat what they are selling.
Some of these people are gentle and kind, others are far more aggressive. Your time as a visitor may be more pleasant if you can learn to say no, and not feel bad about having to repeat that over and over and over again. It can feel unrelenting and especially threatening to females. When this happens, find a café, restaurant or return to your hotel for a break.
Depending on your personal background, you will react to these situations either like its not a big deal, or it may feel completely overwhelming.
The idea of personal space here can be another struggle. Coming from Canada, my invisible bubble is large, and for the most part, a fellow Canadian will have a similar sized bubble. When you travel, you discover that some countries have no bubble at all.
Travel Tips
Ok what can we do. Protect your belongings. Whether this means a cross-body bag, zippered pockets, phone cords, keep everything of value close to your body. This isn’t exclusive to Tangier; this is sound advice for every traveller no matter where you are these days.
Don’t follow anyone. Many males were trying to offer directions, wanting to take me to the Kasbah, Medina, on tours etc. What they will usually do is either take you on said tour and then aggressively demand payment, or take you to a friend’s shop. Just don’t follow anyone anywhere, no matter if they say they do not want payment.
Money
ATM withdrawals are expensive in Tangier. Best to take some cash, either Euro or dollars and change it at any number of money changers. They are all around, not hard to find and take no commission. Their rates are very good too. Most shop keepers in Tangier will even take your Euro for payment.
Toilets
There are a few public ones sprinkled around the Medina. They do cost a fee and offer toilet paper. Most eateries also have a bathroom; however, it may not be on the premises. One that I visited, I had to follow a host down the street to use a restroom.
WIFI
I did not purchase a SIM card as my visit was a short one. I was hoping to get by on WIFI and I found this a challenge. There are no chain restaurants near the Medina and no café I visited had public WIFI. Before I left my hotel each morning, I google mapped directions and took screen shots and found this the most helpful way to get myself around.
Cats
Cats are everywhere, I would hazard to guess just as many if not more than in Turkey. But no where have I seen this many in a state of illness. I wanted to pet and talk to them all as I usually do when I travel. Here, I was a little afraid to be honest, afraid of getting scratched or an infection. It’s a terrible and sad thing to see and broke my heart.
For the Ladies
The biggest advice I can provide is to dress conservatively and down. Yes, you can wear what ever you like in theory, but the more exposed you are and the tighter your clothing, the more attention you will garner. I would highly suggest baggy clothing, long pants or skirts, long sleeves, absolutely no cleavage, and no shoulders showing either. I practised all of this and still had the issues I did.
Tangier is an exciting and beautiful city to explore. There is so much to see, learn about and experience. The city will have every one of your senses singing, from tasting delicious foods, to seeing ghastly things. One aspect I take very seriously while travelling is safety, and Tangier is a one and done for me. I’m glad I went and I would encourage everyone to visit, but for me personally, I have no desire to return. I simply didn’t feel comfortable there.
