It is a very special time in Split and I am so glad I was here to see these events unfold. Today is Sudamja! Feast of St. Domnius and The Day of the City of Split.
Brief History
St. Domnius (Svetii Duje) was a 3rd century bishop who was beheaded by Diocletian and became a martyr. St Dom was named the patron saint of Split and his remains were later returned to the city and placed into Diocletian’s mausoleum, where they remain. The mausoleum was converted into a catholic church and was named The Cathedral of St. Domnius.
Every year on May 7th, which is The Day of the City of Split, the city also celebrates Sudamja, the Feast of St. Domnius. There are various festivals and activities from morning to night. The biggest is the procession that travels from the Cathedral, through the old city and to the Riva Waterfront, where a mass is celebrated for thousands of people gathered on the esplanade.
The Procession
I was lucky enough to have front row standing room this morning and viewed the procession leaving the Cathedral. Included in the procession was the Prelate Zelemir Puljic, it was a sight to behold.
Most notable was the ancient silver bust of St. Domnius that was carried through town under a bright red and gold awning. I think he was looking at me.
Once through the East Gate of Old City, the procession is joined by various civic groups, catholic dignitaries, clergy of all orders and nuns. And then, by the thousands, are the residents of Split.
Smelling the incense and watching this unfold inside the ancient walls of Diocletian’s palace was truly magical. For moments, I felt like I had time travelled back through the ages.
The Riva Waterfront Mass
On the sea side of Diocletian’s Palace, is a gorgeous wide esplanade that follows the coast line beside the city, called the Riva Waterfront. Set up at one end is a huge stage, this is where the public mass held for the thousands of people is taking place.
Sudamja Fair
On either side of the esplanade is the Sudamja Fair where one can purchase all sorts of things from Croatia. It is tradition that everyone should purchase a wooden spoon. No one knows where this tradition came from, but it was apparent that people follow this. Not only were many vendors were selling spoons, but most people were carrying them.
If you do not wish to have a spoon, then anything made of wood will suffice, hence all of the vendors selling wood products. 😊 From pick axes (the wooden handle) to brooms to cutting boards and everything in between!
The throngs are pulsing down there right now. I have come back to my flat to type up this post and to partake in some quiet time.
This evening will be music on the stage into the wee hours of the morning, and fireworks better than New Years Eve is what I hear. Can’t wait!
