On a day trip to Nara from Osaka, my first stop was to visit with the beautiful sika deer at the park. But after that, I went on an exploratory mission inside the neighbouring temple. Here are 5 things not to be missed at Todai-ji temple in Nara.
The Great Buddha Hall
It would be remiss of me not to begin with this most magnificent structure. Originally build in 752, this is a huge wooden temple constructed to imitate a Chinese temple from the Tang dynasty. The building is so grand, that up until 1998, it was the largest wooden building in the world!
Due to fire, the temple has been rebuilt twice, what we see today is the latest construction from 1709, 35% smaller than the original. Such a marvel to behold in person with absolutely enormous timbers, exquisite deep and rich patina and massive cast iron nails.
The Great Buddha
The temple houses a most exquisite object, the largest bronze Buddha Diabutsu in the world! Originally cast in 751AD, in several pieces, it is a sight to behold. Wow, is it every massive to be right up close to. A path inside the hall, will take visitors all the way around so you can view him from every angle.
Due to earthquake damage, he has been recast a few times, for example his hands were recast in 1615 and his head in 1867. Did you know there are 960 curls on his head? And a human tooth, pearls, mirrors, swords and jewels have been discovered inside his knee, believed to be relics of Emperor Shomu.
The Great South Gate
Approaching the Buddha Hall, you will first encounter the Great South Gate, a beautiful wooden structure in and of itself. Pause to absorb the beautiful ancient timbers and wonder at the height and complexity of the ceiling.
On either side stand two dancing figures, each 28 feet tall! These Nio, are the guardians that were built at the end of the 12th century. Massive figures, they have not moved or touched until they were repaired in 1988! Now they are absolutely covered in dust, but can still be seen, almost mystical like, through the large netted fabric protecting them from the birds.
Nigatsudo Hall
This was actually my favourite structure at the Todai-ji Temple complex. Located on the hillside of Mt. Wakakusa, together with other small buildings, creates its own sub-complex. The main large building protects two Buddha’s that are never shown to the public.
Being build in 772, it was destroyed due to fire in 1667. What we see today is the re-build shortly there after. Even though visitors cannot go inside this building, I highly encourage you to walk around its exterior. Look upwards, here you will see old paintings, ancient scripture and massive hanging cast iron lamps.
Around two sides at the rear are tall granite headstones, many covered in moss. And around at the back, if you are lucky, you can stand at one small opening a watch the monks performing a ceremony over fire. Absolutely magical to watch in complete silence.
The Sorin
Last but not least, the sorin. This tall golden structure, sparkling in the sunshine was exhibited at the World Expo in 1970. It was placed atop the seven-storied pagoda on display, that was specifically build for the Expo, in imitation of the 1,200 year old pagoda from Todai-ji.
Seeing how tall this is in person, one cannot help but marvel at the actual size the pagoda must have been. When I visited, there were sika deer, wandering around this forested area, nestled into the park. It’s a lovely sight to see, and a connection of something built relatively recently to these marvellous old structures at this complex.
The Todai-Ji Temple is absolutely worth the visit. There will be crowds of tourists towards the entrance, but be brave and persevere, for like most places, once you are a ways into the park and grounds, the visitors thin out and you may even find yourself, blessedly alone amongst these ancient treasures.
