Visiting cemeteries in each place I visit has long been a tradition of mine. I find cemeteries very interesting places, as I do markets in each destination. They give me a sense of the community I have decided to immerse myself in. The Old Jewish Cemetery in Split was very interesting indeed.
Brief History
This cemetery is the oldest Jewish resting place in Croatia. Founded in 1573, it closed its doors just after WWII and has become a protected cultural monument to the city. Housed here are over 700 tombs.
Oldest to Newest
The property is on a gentle rise on the eastern side of Marjan Hill.
The first burial was in 1717 and the tombs of those ages were simple flat slabs of stone placed directly onto the ground. These can be found close to the gate at the entrance.
The higher you walk up the gentle slope, the newer the graves become. Right at the top of the hillside are the latest tombs from the 1940’s.
Many of the tombs in the middle section have a sarcophagi shape, which I had never seen before and found really interesting. They look completely unique and many are engraved with Hebrew script.
The Site
The grounds are quite un-manicured, which I find really lovely. Visiting in May, the ground was carpeted with wildflowers, grasses and clover. The tall pines above provide shade and a place for the birds to rest and sing their songs.
Placing Stones
Many of the tombs had stones placed upon them, even some of the old ones. This is a Jewish tradition and tells loved ones that others are thinking of the departed.
One site in particular was covered in so many stones and flowers. This is the grave of Vid Morpurgo, a Dalmatian writer and politician.
Walking around this cemetery is such a peaceful and lovely experience. I was the only visitor when I was here. The cemetery is surrounded by tall stone walls which makes one feel like they are inside a very special place indeed, a nest of tranquility.
