My first day in the city, I explore the oldest part, high atop a hill and overlooking the Straight of Gibraltar. This area is rich in history and full of a maze of narrow alleys and unique finds. The magic of the Kasbah in Tangier Morocco is tantalizing and exotic. Come get lost with me.
Getting There
Located inside the ancient Medina, the Kasbah sits at the highest point. Its actually quite a small area and consist of two important structures namely the Kasbah Museum (old palace) and Mosque. Here is a google link that will get you to the vicinity, and a map with a loop that visitors can walk to make the most of the area.
Brief History
The Kasbah meaning citadel, was built in 1684 when the English fled the city and it was reclaimed by Morocco. Before the English left, they destroyed all of the city’s defences. First thing to do was to rebuild these walls and defensive areas. This included the Moroccan governor’s seat of power, residence, courthouse, jail, government buildings, mosque and grounds.
This is what the Kasbah is, this core of Moroccan historical power.
Walls
I don’t know what it is, but I am always drawn to these old fortifications and their walls. Wide, tall and foreboding, they enclose and offer safety to their people. The walls of the Kasbah are beautiful, a warm stone with Moorish design, emanating strength.
Streets
I was interested in exploring the Kasbah on this trip, rather than visiting museums and such. For me, walking around being absorbed by the place was my goal. Full of narrow streets and tall old stone buildings, the dim and darker areas are full of wonder. Many buildings blend into the next and are seemingly built on top of each other, akin to a Lego fort.
There were not many tourists inside the Kasbah this day, which was lovely. I am told however, that when the cruise ships arrive, large groups can swarm in and engulf an area quickly. For me, it felt like I had the streets to myself and it was wonderful and mysterious to explore.
The air is much warmer than I anticipated, even though the sunshine rarely reaches down into these narrow streets, temps are warm even in winter.
Buildings
Beautiful architecture, very Mediterranean feel, with white washed walls and black iron window coverings filling these streets.
The old doors are absolutely the highlight for me, so charming with their various colours, and antique hardware.
One building in particular, this old mosque is of special interest. It was painted in 1913 by the French artist Matisse. At that time, the Kasbah was predominately bright blue, instead of the white we see today.
Shops
Very few in fact, visitors will find a few souvenir shops, perhaps two stores that sell snacks and one restaurant. It is here, at El Morocco Club, that I chose to have my first meal in Africa, a large breakfast.
Under the shade of this beautiful big tree and the company of a cat, I enjoyed the continental breakfast and a side order of eggs. The cost for all was €11 which I paid for in cash as I had not changed any money yet into the local currency. Most establishments in Tangier will take your Euro no problem.
Bab Haha Gate
One particularly beautiful area is a large gate called the Bab Haha Gate. Here, tucked just inside, is a most extraordinary old tile fountain. Not in use today, the area exudes a feeling of times gone by.
Using this gate as an exit or entrance to the Kasbah, don’t forget to turn around and enjoy the view. An wondrous sight of the ancient Medina unfolds before you. There is a terrific little café here too, perfect to stop and have a cold drink or your first glass of Moroccan mint tea.
Wow, what a start to my trip to Tangier. Getting lost inside the Kasbah, discovering hidden treasures, seeing beautiful doors and architecture, what could be better? I met a completely lovely human, listened to palm fronds rustling in the breeze and witnessed an old area, breathing and heaving with beauty.
