Arguably the biggest draw for tourists to Split, is the gorgeous and historic ancient part of the city. The magic of Diocletian’s Palace & Old Town is like nothing else. Walking around this area gives me the feeling I have stepped back in time. Especially early in the morning, before the throngs of people fill the tiny alleyways.
Diocletian
Diocletian was a Roman Emperor who was born in Salona, a large Roman city that was once the capital of Dalmatia. Located only 6 kilometres from Split, remnants of the city can be visited today. (A later post)
Between 295 and 305 AD, Diocletian built his retirement home on the shores of the Adriatic Sea at Split. The remains of the Palace and military compound are what constitutes about half of ‘Old Town’ today.
Diocletian’s Palace
Diocletian’s Palace is the best preserved example in the world, of Roman Palatial architecture. It is astounding to me how much of this structure actually remains. I have walked the exterior walls and I can clearly make them out, even when they have been incorporated into other buildings.
The tiny alleys all through the grounds are absolutely magical to get lost in. The feeling of being in a maze is fantastic, and really fun. Because the walls are tall and the alley’s so narrow, these can be quite dark which lends to the mystery and thrill. Oh this is why I love travel! These feelings of pure wonder!
During the daytime, these alleys are lined with cafés and restaurants spilling out into the plazas, but early in the morning they are devoid of obstruction.
Below Ground
In addition to the palace currently at ground level, is a whole underworld mostly undiscovered. The cellars are mysterious and dark and occupied with a souvenir market of sorts, what a wonderful place to shop!
Not yet excavated is at least two sub-floors under ground level, that I can clearly see from various vantage points around the cathedral.
The Peristyle
The most photographed area of the Palace has to be the Peristyle near the Cathedral of St. Domnius. Stepping into this space and being surrounded by columns, sphinx and huge slabs of limestone is incredible.
Behind the peristyle is the domed room of the vestibule which lead into the imperial apartments. The dome was removed in the 1800’s, and on a sunny day, that hole will create a shining orb on the inner wall of the building.
Cathedral of St. Domnius
The round building you can see in both the old drawing and aerial photo is the Cathedral of St. Domnius. Originally this was the mausoleum, where Diocletian was laid to rest. However, when the Christians returned to the city in the 700’sAD, they replaced him with St. Domnius.
In the 1500’s a bell tower was erected at the side of the Cathedral, and together with the Peristyle make for the most romantic and stunning photographs.
The Personal Touch
For me, what makes this ancient wonderland so amazing, is the access give to feel history right through my fingertips. The sensation I have when I can touch something that craftsmen created thousands of years ago, and humans have touched or walked on through the ages is like nothing else.
Every day I walk through Old Town I am transported to a time long ago. I can picture people in lavish garments and robes, adorned with gold and gemstones. The shuffle of their leather sandal clad feet walking through the limestone streets fills my ears. I can hear the hustle and bustle of vendors trading their goods. It is an enchanting place, and I understand why it draws people by the thousands every year.
