Readers will know by now; how much I adore markets of any kind. I was in my element here in Tangier, and perhaps found my personal limit as well. Let me explain. The Grand & Petit Socco of Tangier Morocco will awaken all of your senses, more than you might want.
Grand Socco
Ok, we are going to start tame, ease you into these markets. There are two main socco’s in Tangier. Socco is the Spanish word for souk, or market. The Grand Socco is based at the 9 April 1947 Square just outside of the Medina.
The streets leaving this main square will offer visitors a chance to peek into the unique offerings available. Most fascinating are the beauty shops, full of lotions, potions, and all sorts of unique products.
Years ago, when I was visiting Marrakesh, I purchased this lipstick in the clay pot. And now I see these again, how marvellous! It certainly doesn’t look like lipstick, but if you wet your finger, and touch the surface, that dull dried patina instantly turns into bright red lip paint!
Look at the soap (savon) and all of the dried herbs and products used to create tinctures and cleanses. How I wish I had a trusted interpreter to provide me with an education on all of these interesting products.
Petit Socco
The smaller souk (not really), is located within the Medina. The main square of the Petit Socco is where visitors can have a seat at one of two cafés, and watch the goings on before your eyes. From break dancing, to singing and soccer, you never know what you are going to see taking place here.
There are various narrow alleys off of this square, that one will find a myriad of local handicrafts. From pottery to jewellery, clothing to leather shoes and handbags. If you are looking for a unique and colourful souvenir, these little streets are your destination.
Fresh Market
Without a real name for this place, I’m calling it the ‘fresh market’. I have wandered into this two-story section of the Petit Socco a few times and this is where things get a little real and all too gritty.
Near the doors or archways into this maze, visitors will see fruits and vegetables, perhaps some bread and cheese being sold. If you find this, you have arrived at the Fresh Market. At another entrance you may find the household supplies too, such as cleaners and kitchenware.
Me being curious, I walked deeper and deeper. If you are queasy, turn around now, and go back outside once you have seen the vegetables.
Meat
Through billowing tarps, I walked down one row and found myself face to face with live chickens. These were being yanked up by their wings, weighed and killed right then and there.
Another alley started fairly benign, with a few carcasses hanging from hooks. The next few steps however and I was in the thick of it, literally. The ground became slimy with bits and blood, the hooks overtaken by offal.
All sorts of pieces of the innards of cows and lamb were on display. Intestines braided and drying out in the heat. Liver and kidney losing their shiny lustre. Yards of tripe or stomach hung limp in the still, stagnant and thick air.
Fish
If you have gotten through the meat, you will now find yourself in a large room of seafood. Here the smell is the most intense and I reacted physically to it immediately. Its not fishy, its rot.
I was the only female in this section, no other foreigners either. As I walked around looking at the seafood I was in a bit of a panic if I’m honest. I wanted to see all that was on offer and how the locals were preparing it.
Small sardines were being ripped of their innards in pools of blood and guts that dripped onto the floor and had to be trod in. I looked down to see a large eel looking fish poking his head out from a styrofoam box at my knees. Looking up I saw tuna being chopped and a myriad of other species of seafood being gutted, cleaned and prepared.
This area is not for the faint of heart. If you are curious and want to see local food preparation, this is the place for you. Its not loud, there are no vendors yelling to catch the eye of the shopper. In fact, there are hardly any shoppers back here at all.
The Grand & Petit socco’s in Tangier are an experience and a wondrous place to explore. I can guarantee you will see something you have never witnesses before. Unique handicrafts, rare antiques, local salves and more. Wear some comfy shoes, that you don’t mind getting dirty and go for it. You will have memories and stories forever.
