One day, I was walking around, exploring the area far beyond the tourist zone. In the distance I could see this massive white structure that I decided to investigate on another day. Well, today was that day. What I found was the Fraternal Barrow Memorial Complex or sometimes nicknamed the ‘Brotherly Mound’.
Brief History
Only opened in 1974, this monument is located at one end of the Memorial Path inside the Park of Recreation and Culture (Otdih i Kultura). Planning began in the 1950’s when the City Council wanted to erect a monument to honour the courage and the memory of those who sacrificed their lives for the freedom of Bulgaria. By the time the communist era was over in Plovdiv, in 1989, the monument was already in a state of disrepair.
Today it is closed because of the vandalism and theft that has taken place here. I was incredibly fortunate to be let inside, a light was shining on me today.
Today
When I walked up to the monument today, I went to the front gated area and peeked inside, taking photo’s as best I could through the fence. As I was walking away, a man began yelling at me from a vehicle parked nearby. Thinking I was in trouble, I wanted to skedaddle but he motioned for me to come over to him.
Not understanding each other, I walked towards him, but not getting too close. The man hopped out of his vehicle and walked towards me. Again, he waved at me to follow him. Low and behold, he led me down to the gates again and unlocked one to let me inside!!
I was so utterly grateful.
What I Saw
This monument has been built in the shape of a Thracian burial tomb. Around the inner edge of the circle are various large sculptures and at the centre is the eternal fire (no longer). The sculptures represent various states of Bulgaria’s history, from the end of Ottoman rule to WWII when the soviets took hold.
Colourful ribbons stretch from the ceiling to the circle around the fire. I’m not sure what these symbolize, but they are also outside on the pathway, between the light posts.
At the back of the complex is a singular large sculpture which the nice man said was “God”. Behind him, is a vault of 90 cases of bones. These belong to anti-fascist partisans from the region.
Vandals
Unfortunately, this huge monument is being slowly destroyed by vandals. There is graffiti prevalent everywhere, pieces of the statues have been stolen and many have been damaged. Even the security cameras have been taken and pieces of the metal from the doors removed.
From a placard inside, the city has plans at some point to restore the monument and have the space be used for outdoor festivals and events.
I was so grateful for that kind man to let me inside. There was a quiet and sad feeling in my body as I walked around. The man followed me, led me and tried to tell me what he could, but alas, we could not understand each other. Never the less, he did understand me stating my gratitude profusely towards him and his kindness. I have not received such welcome here in Plovdiv, so this stands out as a fine moment for me.
