Visiting the Mercato Del Pesce was a highlight of my time spent in this chaotic and beautiful city. I was however, not prepared for just how graphic the site is. The famous Catania fish market is one of excitement, blood, guts and glory.
Getting There
Located right at the very end of Via Etnea and right behind the Amenano Fountain, you will find the market. It is open from 5am to noon everyday except Sundays. If you do not wish to be in the thick of things, there is an upper railing that you can stand at and watch the goings on below.
Fish & Seafood
Contained within a relatively small sunken area, are the tables of fish and seafood in this market. I walked right down into the centre of it wanting to have a fully immersive experience. I could see so many varieties of fish, most of which were completely unfamiliar to me.
The largest were the tuna, located at almost every table. The heads turned skyward for the long tusk and big eyes to be visible to all. Smaller fish were bathing in tubs of blood that ran down onto the ground.
Piles of shrimp were being cleaned and de-headed while crustaceans relaxed in their cold pools of water. Looking down at my white kicks, I was walking on blood and guts-soaked lava stone.
Eyes
Visually, my brain had a difficult time acknowledging what my eyes were seeing. Not the seafood itself, but the amount of blood, everywhere I looked. Fish that were laying in tubs, were being continually doused with bloody water. Buckets of guts were under the tables, being collected for who knows what.
Nose
Odorously, my nose was assaulted. The strange thing was, there was no traditional ‘fishy’ smell. The stench was from the guts of the creatures being dismembered and sold. It was a thick earthy smell mixed with a little bit of poopy smell. I’ll be honest, I left after about 25 minutes, only because of the smell.
Taste
Taste, I did not engage. There was a vendor selling oysters, but after seeing and smelling, I just could not take the leap. Another vendor had plates of prepared anchovies, sea urchins and small seafood sandy’s, but again, my brain would not tempt me with eating when that smell was entering my nose.
Sound
Listening, it was loud with men’s voices, the fishermen of course. The slop of big gumboots on the ground, the splash of bloody water into and out of buckets. Men engaging with customers and with each other was entertaining as it always is at local Sicilian markets. It was lovely to see the big smiles on the faces of these hard working and proud folk.
Touch
Touching, was only once to feel the ‘tusk’ of the tuna and the taught skin. Other than than, I clutched at my sturdy travel purse with one hand and held my phone aloft with the other. Taking as many pictures as my fingers could coordinate.
Meat Market
I cannot end this post without telling you and showing you the meat market! Located right beside the fish market, it is a small area of several vendors down one street. Once you have risen out of the sunken fish area, explore the few streets around and you will invariably bump right into this.
Now again, be prepared, somewhat more-so at this point. The smell especially if there is no breeze is thick and substantial. It is common for the rest of the world to be eating nose to tail, in fact one could say it is the healthiest, most economical and ethical way to consume meat. Here, you are going to see everything including the nose and the tail.
I would highly recommend visiting both of these markets to any visitor to Catania. You will never forget this experience; I guarantee you that!
