One of the reasons for basing myself at Lucca is its proximity to the Tuscan coastline. When one thinks of Tuscany, rolling green hills and vineyards come to mind. But there is a huge coastal community here too. For a mere €3.90 train ride, I took a day trip to the big beautiful beach at Viareggio Italy.
Getting There
Take a regional Trenitalia train from just about anywhere in the vicinity, and find yourself at the Tyrrhenian seaside. The ride from Lucca only takes 17 minutes! The train station is located in the city, about a 15-minute walk from the beach.
On the way down to the marina, pause to take in some lovely examples of the Art Nouveau architecture that Viareggio is known for. The beautiful pastel homes, decorated with stucco and painted detailing are so pretty. The day I went, I was fortunate enough to pass by a green market, full of locals visiting with each other and selecting their produce for the week.
Harbour
There is quite an extensive harbour at Viareggio. I didn’t walk into the cruise ship port nor did I enter the marina proper. I did however walk down the long pier to see the fishing boats, vendors selling their catch of the day, and local eateries. There are statues on either side and quite a few people out for a picturesque stroll, even this late in the season.
The Promenade
What I was not expecting was the extravagant architecture all along the promenade. Visitors will find a wide area that parallels the beach, stretching for several kilometers. This is the sight of the yearly carnival held in February and there are reminders and advertisements for it everywhere. The local mascot is proudly displayed part way down.
But it’s the architecture that is simply stunning. The promenade was initially constructed in the early 1900’s, built of wood. And you guessed it, a great fire in 1917 burnt everything to the ground.
It was decided that the area should be constructed anew and it is these buildings we see today. Decorated to the gills in elaborate Art Nouveau design, these are some of the prettiest examples of this style I have ever seen. Have a wander into all of the café’s, restaurants, bookstores and such, to see the decorative detailing that has been retained. This time of year is perfect, for the entire stretch is easily walkable and without any crowds.
The Beach
Ok now for what I actually came for…the beach. Not having any idea of what to expect, and worried I would be faced with a pebbly coastline that is all too common, I was stunned with what I discovered. Over ten kilometers of fluffy tan sand and a beach so wide, it might just be the widest one I have ever seen. Most of the beach clubs have closed down for the season, leaving the expanse of glorious soft sand open and free of obstruction.
Little families are dotted here and there, the odd couple enjoying a lazy warm day, but otherwise the beach feels empty.
Crystal clear water, too cold me for me swim in, but locals are out splashing around. I lay my sarong on the ground and luxuriated in the warm Tuscan sun kissing my skin. What a heavenly afternoon, basking in carefree warmth.
Every hour I got up and walked along, my feet wallowing in that cool turquoise water. Watching the sunlight shimmer and dance upon the surface, delighting in the dogs running amok, this day was everything I hoped it would be. If you happen to be in Tuscany, do not discount the coastal area. As my first taste, beautiful Viareggio certainly won’t be my last.
