This is my first trip to the deserts of Jordan and will not be the last. I have been completely overwhelmed by the stunning beauty and the ancient sites that are present here. The best things to see in Wadi Rum Protected Area are varied and fascinating.
Tours
Whether you have time for only a few hours or can spare a couple of days, there is so much to see here. Book your tours either through your camp, or a trusted guide that you are using for your trip to Jordan.
Tour guides, mostly the Bedouins who have called this area home for centuries, know these desert sands like the back of their hands. If you have a chance, let them know what you are interested in, and they may even be able to tailor your journey for you.
What is the Protected Area?
Wadi Rum Protected Area is a UNESCO World Heritage site. A 74,000 hectare piece of land in southern Jordan near the boarder to Saudi Arabia. The reason its so special? In this natural landscape of desert, gorges, cliffs, arches and caverns, are historical remains of human occupation dating back 12,000 years.
These sacred jebals contain over 25,000 rock carvings, petroglyphs and inscriptions that depict the earliest traces of the development of the alphabet. Just WOW. With so much here, what is there specifically to see? Let’s find out.
Little & Big Arches
There are over eight known natural arch formations within Wadi Rum. They are extremely beautiful and have a life span of roughly 20,000 years. This is short in the whole scheme of things. Formed by the natural erosion of the limestone, they vary in height and difficulty of reaching. I visited two. The first being ‘Little Arch’.
This one was easy for me to scale, my guide Hussain came with me and took photographs. I felt on top of the world here. It was scary for me, I’m not a huge fan of heights, and I didn’t dare look down.
The second arch I visited is called Um Fruth or ‘Big Arch’. While certainly not the biggest in Wadi Rum, it is accessible to most of the camps. This one was too steep for me to feel comfortable climbing down from. I did however have a photograph taken whilst inside her belly.
Lawrence’s House
TE Lawrence was an archaeologist by profession, but his role at the time as a British Officer, was to be a liaison between the British government and the Arab tribes. While in Wadi Rum during WWI, he slept in this house, referred to as Lawrence’s house although the Bedouins call it ‘The Little Palace’.
Today the house is in ruins, and was built upon an earlier Nebatean structure dating back 2,000 years. Its original purpose was a station for passing trading caravans.
Don’t miss climbing the ledge above the house. The space is littered with thousands of rock piles created by tourists. These have an historical significance though, dating back thousands of years. Bedouins made them to mark the way for fellow travellers through these rugged mountains.
Petroglyphs
One of the best things at Wadi Rum is seeing this ancient art. This was the first time in my life that I was witness to anything remotely like this and I was in utter awe.
Located in Khazali Canyon, one enters this narrow passage, squeezing through towering jebel cliffs, not knowing what lay ahead. Quite suddenly, on the left side, you begin to see these large human figures, elephants, lions, ibex, and even some more complete hunting scenes.
See that huge pair of feet? These were carved to signify that travellers could find a well of fresh water close by. These petroglyphs are large too, the humans probably measuring 50cm or more. Created by the Thamud and Nebatean tribes that once used to pass through this region of Arabia in their caravans, they are thousands of years old. Absolutely marvellous!
Inscriptions
Along the same vein, and located in the Khazali Canyon too, are these ancient inscriptions. Seeing these early letters and alphabet are truly amazing.
While resting in the shade of the canyon, the same early travellers making their way from Egypt via Petra to Damascus, created this. These are their prayers. Later scripts are records from pilgrims on their way to Mecca. The feeling inside this vast and quiet canyon is one of holiness. A sacred place indeed.
The Dunes
I was excited to see, climb and play on a dune. I’m in the desert after all! Your guide will happily take you to one of many of these massive red sand dunes to do just that.
The first one Hussain took me to was up against a jebal cliff. Climbing to the top is not for the faint of heart. The sand quickly swallows your feet with each step you take. But running down, with my hands spread wide and having the time of my life was worth every drop of sweat.
The second dune I played on was at Burrah Canyon. Known for its high winds and extremely gorgeous views, this place is full of undulating hills of sand. Here I was able to borrow a sand-board from the kindest Sudanese man who operates a Bedouin rest tent there.
With the same level of difficulty, perhaps even more because of the steepness, I made my way up as high as I could get. Not being brave enough to stand on the board, I sat and rode down that hill. It was great fun, such a cool experience.
Mushroom Rock
This uniquely shaped rock is out in the middle of the flat landscape. A product of erosion, it’s a stunning sight and the closer you get, you realize just how large it is.
Do take a fun picture standing under the edge and pretending the weight is on your hands. This is a unique and short stop during your expedition.
Animals
As you are bumping around the desert in your jeep, if you are interested in any of the wildlife, tell your guide. I was on my tour alone, having no other guests at my camp. That was really lucky for me as my guide Hussain, was more than happy to make any stops that I wanted.
And I really wanted to interact with the camels. They and elephants are my favourite animals of all time.
We spotted this herd and pull up along side them. Hussain jumped from the truck and dug out a piece of bread from our lunch. Soon enough we had two lovely creatures moseying up to us. One was a momma.
Hussain took my camera and I felt completely free, elated and over the moon, talking to and engaging with these fuzzy goofballs. We also spotted a herd of goats that we later tried to track but couldn’t find them.
Sunset
An absolute must if you are in the desert overnight, is to witness the sunrise and sunset. Have your guide take you to their favourite spot to enjoy these events.
Hussain drove to a small jebal, easy enough for me to climb to the top of. As I waited for that big ball of energy to descend below the horizon, I was twirling around, taking in all of this beauty.
The gratitude I felt in that moment, standing there, utterly frozen cold, seeing the earth aglow is unmatched. Something I will never ever forget.
This is a very small assortment of what is out there for you to see in the Wadi Rum Protected Area. The number of historical sites and stunning natural beauty is what makes this region so incredible. Whether your tour is tailor made, or you only have a few hours to spare, your time here will live on in your memory forever.
What a time you enjoyed in spite of the cold weather; Wadi Rum is truly a gem; we can see why it meant so much in the film Lawrence of Arabia; those famous words are ingrained in my mind forever – “Tonight you dine with me inWadi Rum”; Loved all the photos and comments.
Hi Josie, thank you for your comment. Wadi Rum is truly an amazing place. Not only the incredible natural beauty but the history embedded withing those canyon walls and grains of sand. Its a part of Jordan than many tourists will just enter for a few hours or one night, but I think it deserves so much more time.