I am elated to have finally arrived at this camp, my home for the next few days. The scenery is surreal, the temperatures freezing and there are no other guests. I had a great stay at Wadi Rum Quiet Village Camp and can highly recommend this experience.
My Tent
Like most of the camps inside the Protected Zone, Quiet Camp has a series of tents of varying size and features. I booked my stay through Expedia and chose a larger room with more than one bed and most importantly, a private bathroom.
Kindly, my suitcase is brought to my tent for me. Outside I have a rattan chair and table complete with a goat skull for décor. After taking in my surroundings, I decide to head over to check out the big tents.
Big Tents
Here at the other end of camp, are the big tents. Two of them, joined at one corner like an ‘L’ shape. One of these is where the food will be enjoyed. I can see a long table for the buffet, and opposite, seating all along the walls. There is one central propane heater in the middle that is turned on periodically.
The second tent is heavily decorated with deep crimson wool rugs giving it a cozy and rich atmosphere. At the far end is the fireplace. Here, after dinner each evening, any guests will gather for a hot cup of tea and conversation.
In warmer times, there is a large fire pit outdoors, surrounded by blankets on the ground and chairs. This would be marvellous to experience in summer months, under a dark, star filled sky.
The only other public building is a large one that houses the toilets. Guests with tents that simply contain a bed, no heater or private bathroom, use the facilities in this building.
Surroundings
Wadi Rum Quiet Village Camp is set in the most surreal area. Nestled into the base of a massive jebel, the scene is simply breathtaking.
I have the chance to walk around and explore the desert on my own for the first day. Taking in the beauty of this incredible space is such fun. Because I am alone, there is not a single other guest at camp, I feel isolated, akin to an early explorer.
I climb over rocks, look for treasures on the surface of this wind-swept sand, and generally have an amazing time, discovering what it feels like to be here.
Logistics
There are all sorts of packages you can find when looking to book your camp stay at Wadi Rum. Firstly, if you want the most of your experience, book within the Protected Zone. This is the only way to see the sights inside here.
Many of the luxury camps, those with domes and swimming pools and such, are located outside the zone, and guests will not have access to these precious sights.
Quiet Camp is one in which everything is booked separately, not as a package deal. Initially I was interested in a camp that included everything as a total package, from the room, to all food and tours. That camp could not accommodate me as a single traveller without having to pay a considerable extra fee.
So, I looked elsewhere, and am happy to have found Quiet Camp.
Costs
I booked the room separately on Expedia and the price includes breakfast. I then had a look at Quiet Camp’s website, and was able to see all of the tours available. These I booked through them, after deciding how to divide up my precious few days.
Dinners are an extra 10DR or $20 CAD. Lunches are not provided except if you are on a full day tour. After speaking with my hotel chef in Petra, and learning of the difficulty of getting food here, I bought with me a backpack full of water and food supplies, just for these occasions.
My tent was $36 CAD per night, my all-day jeep tour was $120 CAD, and my dinners were $20 each.
Food
The brekkies are included with your overnight stay. They are simple, yet filling and tasty. There is always a pot of hot water available to make yourself a cup of instant coffee or tea, any time of day.
Now the dinners. If you are as lucky as I was, you will get to experience your food being cooked under ground! The chef was kind enough to tolerate me capturing this whole process from start to finish. Around lunch time, a fire is lit in the barrel buried in the sand out back. A few hours later, the coals are crushed down and the trays of food are carefully lowered inside. This is then covered with tinfoil to keep the sand out.
A metal lid is placed on top, then a blanket. Lastly the oven is covered with a mountain of sand. Left now to cook for three hours, I arrive back after dark to watch the unveiling. Simply the coolest thing to watch that steam emerge, and smell those fragrant spices wafting through the air.
The meal is set up inside the big tent and anyone around is invited to dig in. I also enjoyed a chicken capsa at this camp and it was wonderful too.
Struggles
Two things stand out for me. Being the only guest on the first night, I was understandably nervous as a solo female. Being in these new and isolated surroundings and placed in a tent at the far corner of camp left me feeling unsettled.
The devastation to the tourism industry in Jordan right now is real. With the conflicts in the neighbouring countries, most tourists are too frightened to visit the country. This is the third time I have found myself completely alone at my accommodations. Twice at hotels and now here at camp.
Staying Warm
The second thing was the heater in my room. I am frightened of gas so even when I know what I’m doing I’m still scared. The chef was so kind and came to my room on the first evening to help me get the propane heater going.
I fell asleep in a somewhat toasty environment. When I first woke up at 1am, the room was an icebox. My immediate reaction was fear. How long had that flame been out and propane still running? Immediately I got up and by the flashlight on my phone, turned the dial on the propane tank to what I hoped was off.
I woke again that morning at 5am to start my day. The room was frigid, my weather app told me it was zero degrees and I could definitely believe that. Later in the afternoon, the chef changed out my propane heater for a new one and I was again able to heat my tent, but only when I was not sleeping, for safety reasons.
Wintertime
I knew it was going to be cold here at this time of year. I had read and heard this. But I had no idea it was going to ‘feel’ this cold. With the wind and inadequate clothing, it was rough, I’m not going to lie. Each day I wore all three long sleeve tops that I own, my wind breaker, a scarf and two pairs of pants. And I was still freezing in the morning and after the sun set.
A benefit to travel during the winter? No bugs, no snakes and no scorpions! A win for me. 🦂🐍
Wadi Rum Quiet Village Camp turned out to be an amazing place to be situated for the duration of my stay in the desert. The two brothers who take care of the day-to-day operations, Mohammad and Hussein, are extremely personable and friendly. Chef is truly talented, humble and kind. I would absolutely recommend Quite Village to anyone and everyone.
