As an avid market goer, almost the first thing I look to visit when at a new destination is any type of market. Flea, antique, fresh food, second hand, doesn’t matter. I love them all! I have found the best market in Podgorica Montenegro and I’m excited to show you everything.
Location
Right in the centre of the city, in fact beside the Mall of Montenegro, is a large, covered, two-story structure. Google map link here, it’s at the intersection of Bratszva I Jedinstva and within close proximity to the train station too.
Officially called Trznice I Pijaca which translates to ‘Market and Square’ or Gintas (big market), either search will suffice. Stop in almost anytime, as its open seven days a week, from 8am to 9pm and 3pm on Sundays.
Upstairs
The upper floor has everything non food related. There are a myriad of narrow lanes with vendors and their goods crammed on either side. Find clothing, knock-off items, shoes, household goods, electronics, home décor, kitchenware etc.
Walk around all four sides to see what is available. The central area is a wide-open space with which to view down below, where the real action is taking place.
Bottom Floor
Here find everything related to food! The vast central floor space is filled with vendors selling all sorts of fresh produce, even plants and flowers. Along the perimeter walls are bakeries, the cheese room and the fish room.
Cheese & Fish
Both of these are kept separate from the main space, in their own cold rooms. The fish room is underwhelming, with only a few vendors open and not many shoppers. Still, it’s interesting to see what is being hauled inland for sale here.
The cheese room on the other hand is bustling with activity. Its much larger than the fish room, with multiple vendors seemingly selling the same or very similar products. And not just cheese, but butter and bottles of whey too. It’s very easy to see which sellers are favoured by the public as these have longer lines.
A staple to the Montenegrin diet that is served at almost every meal is a cheese called Plijevaljski. It’s a white cheese made from raw cows’ milk and has a strong flavour and creamy texture. The maturation takes place in wooden barrels. Thin layers of cheese are salted and placed inside the barrels which are then filled with brine. This sits for 15 days at which point it is ripe and ready to eat.
A very friendly vendor, full of shy smiles, was offering me tastes of the various pungencies. After choosing my favourite, I asked for a small portion and left with a container costing €2. The cheese is similar to feta but a less crumbly and dry.
Bakeries
There are several, one of which is creating and baking fresh burek right there on a table. It’s amazing to see, I had no idea the dough was this stretchy and pliable. Spinning around these large discs of paper-thin pastry is a delight to see.
After it is slathered with oil, the meat is added and the rolling process begins. Like a long snake this is then curled or folded, depending on the baker’s preference, placed in an iron pan and put in the little oven to bake. Shoppers are lined up to receive a piping hot meat burek, a most delicious and authentic Balkan food item.
Herbs, Spices & Dried Goods
One of my favourite parts of this market are these stalls that are selling nothing but the above. The plethora of items on these tables is mind boggling. All sorts of dried herbs used for medicinal purposes, teas and cooking are fascinating to see.
The volume of nuts and seeds, mostly raw, shelled and ready to eat would make any health nut happy to see. Fresh as can be, I purchased a container of hazelnuts and one of pumpkin seeds and both were insect free and full of flavour. Cost €2.50 each.
On these tables also find the bottles of liquid concoctions I know not what they are. The olive oil and wine I can recognize and would love to try. There is rakija, an alcoholic Balkan specialty and home-made liquor too.
I must not forget to mention the honey. There is so much at this market and it’s beautiful to see. All shades of golden amber, some with honey comb, others just pure sweet nectar. It’s a popular product and consumed regularly at meals.
Fresh Produce
Now for the most colourful part and largest section of the ‘big market’, the produce. Never have I seen watermelons this large in my entire life. The unadulterated ones, full of seeds. Vendors will cut off and sell you as much or as little as you want.
Fruit, in season, bursting with flavour and picked at its peak. I’m here in time for the best of the summer selection. Strawberries, nectarines, peaches, apricots, cherries, melons, the market is overflowing with natures candy.
Vegetables are not in short supply either. Find an abundance of tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers, which are consumed daily in salads. Vendors selling only potatoes! Mounds, bags, and piles of lovely apples of the earth. I have never seen quite so many potatoes before. Its lovely.
The only thing I found difficult to find, any where I am trying to shop, including grocery stores is fresh herbs! I cannot find a basil leaf to save my life. Coming from Sicily and before that Vietnam earlier in the year, I had become used to having so many fresh green herbs. Leafy products in general do not seem to be so popular here in fact, perhaps because its mid summer and the temperatures are not conducive to growing these items.
Cured Meats & Olives
A shout out to the cured meats and abundance of olives. I can’t forget to mention both of these. Found in amongst the produce, visitors will see little piles of sausage and hamon. One cannot stop and admire the glistening olives for the scent is overpowering and makes the stomach instantly rumble with delight.
I encourage any visitor to Podgorica to come, peruse and shop at this glorious city market. Each time I have been, vendors are very friendly. They are not pushy, nor loud, and respond so sweetly to a happy ‘Dobro Jutro’. As far as markets go, this one is right up there with selection, affordable prices and the absolute pleasure that comes from making connections with local people.
