Readers will know I love a market place, in fact, I’m a little obsessed with them. They are fun to explore and I always see and learn something interesting. In the middle east, markets are often called souqs and they are just as enjoyable as anywhere. Here is the best guide to Nizwa Souq & what to expect when you arrive.
Brief History
Nizwa was once the ancient capital of Oman, historically referred to as Al-Okor or Al-Akr. Situated in an area where trade routes met, the city has been a destination for the buying and selling of goods for centuries. Today Nizwa Souq is located in its original location, however most buildings and infrastructure are new or renovated. When you enter some areas, it may feel like a contrived space, but know this is the location where the souq has always been.
When you hear ‘Nizwa Souq’ you might think that refers to one big market place, but it is actually a vast area separated by product. Visitors will walk between the spaces and see individual souqs for food, fresh and dried, meat, fish, livestock, pottery, souvenirs and well just about everything.
Central Large Souq
At the core, is one large, two story, newer building that houses food, specifically produce, dates, halwa, medicinal and topical natural products. It can feel quite sterile inside this cavernous room and many stalls are simply closed and empty. Do try the halwa and even purchase some here as the variety is vast. It is a traditional Omani desert, consumed on special occasions. A jellylike substance made with ghee, sugar, nuts and various spices and flavourings.
Upstairs is a massive shop that sells ‘antiques’ however buyer beware, most of the items are not old. The are dusty and crusty and may look old, but many are reproduced and imported.
Fresh Produce
Directly outside of this large building, visitors will find the lively fresh produce sellers. This area and the weapons shops are the only ones where I noticed locals purchasing items. All other souqs seem to be for the attraction of the tourist.
See all sorts of seasonal fruits and vegetables and interact with the friendly vendors. I was offered these ‘apples’ to taste, really lovely mild flavour with one single seed. Another item that caught my eye are those huge pods. They contain the undeveloped date flowers and are used in a salad!
Meat & Fish Souqs
Located in a separate building is the Meat Souq. Here find butchers selling fresh poultry, lamb, mutton and beef. Outside is a fish souq that consists of a few stalls along the curb with fresh product being sold in the mornings.
Pottery & Handicrafts
What most people will see photo’s of when they google ‘Nizwa Souq’ is the pottery. This large area is dedicated to handicrafts and beautiful pieces of earthenware. From small traditional incense burners to larger lanterns, here is where visitors can find the perfect souvenir. There is a huge selection of colourful pieces to temp even the most minimalist of minds. A little mug or trinket dish may be all you need to remember your time spent in beautiful Oman.
If you are looking astutely, you might see some very authentic things as well. A goat skin water bag or even some amazing hand beaten copperware.
This is a beautiful part of the souq to experience at night too. All of the fairy lights and lanterns are aglow and the place transforms into a magical one. The streets outside the shops are lined with perfume and incense sellers and the smell is intoxicating.
Weapons & Silver Shops
I have to mention the area in behind the pottery souq as it took me quite by surprise. Tucked in behind one of the larger pottery shops is a small alley of sorts. On both sides it is lined with shops full of weapons! And not antique weapons, but modern firearms. These were quite busy with local men when I went through. It is very common for the farmers and Bedouin to carry firearms; you will see an example in my next post.
Behind the other large pottery shop is another alley and that one is full of the silver shops. Lots of antique Bedouin jewellery, modern silver and traditional items can be purchased there including beautiful beads.
East Souq
I have saved my favourite part of the souq complex for last. This is perhaps the most authentic structure, it seems barely renovated from its original state. A dark and dim maze of alleys lined with herbs, spices and beautiful handicrafts.
If you are looking for a truly authentic souvenir, those hand-woven baskets lined with goat skin are what you want. They are made by the Bedouins and traditionally were used to hold liquids. Amazing craftsmanship and to see so many in one place is really special.
There are many other treasures inside this oldest part of the souq and I think you might enjoy this area the most too. Vendors are especially kind and will let you sample their wares. From candy to spices, tinctures, and more, it’s a great part of the market explore at leisure.
Whether you have days or merely hours, you will want to spend time in the Nizwa Souq. Prices are generally less here than in the Mutrah Souq in Muscat. It is a lively and colourful place to pick up that souvenir and bargaining is the norm. Yes, it can feel a little touristy but if you dig deep there are authentic items to be found. Perhaps the most unique and unusual souq? That’s for the next post my friends.
