My previous post includes all of the wanderings around this little village, searching for the elusive craft. I know it is here; I just have to find it. Perseverance is something I, as a Tuarian have in spades. And success too! I had the best experience at Tuy Loan rice paper village in Da Nang Vietnam.
Brief History
This unique and quaint village has been making rice paper and noodles for more than 500 years, in fact it is thought to be the birthplace of these specific varieties. There remain 15 households that keep the traditional craft alive by passing the knowledge down through generations.
Tuy Loan Village was recently designated a national heritage site because of this specific and special craft.
Research
Of the research that I did, I could not locate an actual address or site to see the process. Google shows me directions to the village, and that the busiest time for making rice paper is for the Tet holidays which have come and gone this year.
I have been searching the little streets and alleys surrounding the core of Tuy Loan village in hopes of finding evidence. I’m looking for the paper drying in the sunshine as the google images indicate that I will see. The address of the village is in the Hoa Phong Commune, Hoa Vang District.
I keep asking, and eventually a lovely person named Jin says she will take me to a place! I am beyond grateful that she has left her other friends in order to guide me today. Its only a short walk, perhaps two or three minutes, but before I know it, I’m walking into a strangers shed.
The House
The main home is quite large and is on a fairly busy road in fact. Beside it, well leaning onto it is a sizable outdoor space, a shed. As I follow Jin inside the dim interior, I immediately see these baskets covered with rice paper and I can’t help but let out a squeal of delight.
Jin has a little chat with the lady attending to the rice paper and says I have permission to have a look around. I am absolutely thrilled and thank Jin profusely for her guidance. As soon as she leaves, I being taking some photos. The rice paper sheets are drying on what looks like large woven upturned bowls. Underneath is a layer of coals and it is these that one woman is moving around with a metal pole.
Around the base of the bowls cardboard sheet have been placed, but there is rice paper underneath these, stuck to the sides. I’m fascinated.
The Stove
Behind this section I spot a fire burning in an oven of sorts. There is an elderly lady there, making the rice paper!
It is now that a lovely young woman named Mun, comes over. She speaks more English than anyone else I have met thus far. She tells me she is 19 years old and is the granddaughter of the woman at the oven. Mun takes my hand and walks me over to grandma to watch what is going on.
Quang Noodles
It is quang noodles that she makes now, earlier in the morning she was busy creating the rice paper discs. Now its noodles for lunch and dinner. They are both made the same way initially, except the noodles are not dried, but the disc is cut up into slices when the rice is still damp.
I watch grandma at the fire. Mun relays all information to her and I see her big smile emerge. She is just so lovely. Grandma wants to know how old I am so I tell Mun and ask the same. Turns out grandma is 73.
My Turn
Before I know it Mun says that grandma wants to let me have a go! I am beyond excited and thrilled to be given this opportunity. I take the seat beside the fire and am guided on how to stir the thin rice mixture, capture it in the large shallow spoon, and carefully transport it over to the fire without spilling.
Once the liquid is poured onto the stretched cloth, a quick circular motion must happen before the paste gets too sticky to move. I fail miserably and grandma jumps right in to my rescue.
Now the lid is place on and the flat pancake steams for only a minute or two. When the lid is lifted, a huge waft of steam arses, and a second layer must now be added. Lid back on to let that cook for another two minutes.
Finally, with the lid off again, a piece of stiff reed is dipped into the bowl of boiling water below the stretched fabric. With the stick wet, it is gently prodded around one edge of the disc then slid about a third the way across, underneath the pancake. The entire disc is carefully lifted off the fabric and onto the mesh reeds bedside the seat. Here is will cool down and then be cut into noodles!
The Shed
After I have two attempts, grandma takes over again and I am allowed to look around. I see an additional cooking area behind the big fire. Here vegetables are being prepared for the meal.
In the middle of the space is an electric cooking space, like an outdoor kitchen of sorts. One lady is preparing lunch here that looks like pork ribs.
On the other side of the divider is a huge cauldron and piles of clean aluminum bowls of every shape and size. Beyond this is a little garden full of green vegetables and herbs. A chicken and her brood are busy plucking bugs from the ground between the plants.
Family
By now, more family has arrived and I am beginning to feel like the centre of attention which I don’t like at all. My nature is to shy away from the spotlight. The aunty is here along with her children. The little girls are especially affectionate and one runs right up to me and wont stop giving me hugs. She is absolutely adorable.
Grandma wants to give me a disk of rice paper to take home as a gift. They open up a package and pull one out. After the sheets are dried, they are then roasted over fire, which gives them that warm brown colour and a wonderful crunch. One is broken up for tasting right then and there and all I can say is its delicious.
Now all of the family are wanting photos with me and of course I ask some of them too which they are more than happy to do. Its such a warm and loving environment I feel I have been adopted into this family.
Farewells
Time to leave now, I am over stimulated. Mun asks how I am getting back to Da Nang. I tell her with a Grab ride. She balks and so does the family. The father calls a friend to see if they will give me a ride. Then grandma is on the phone asking someone as well. Turns out no one is heading that way thankfully, that would just feel too burdensome.
Instead, grandma gives Mun an umbrella with which to shade me while we cross the street and wait for the bus. Apparently, one is coming shortly. Mun and I end up waiting for probably half an hour at least. She won’t leave my side, and will absolutely not entertain the idea of taking any money from me as a thank you for all her family has shared this day.
Grab
When it is apparent that no bus is coming, I hail a Grab driver and he is here before I know it. I say a sad farewell to Mun, she has been an absolutely treasure in translating all I needed to learn and all I wanted to say to this incredible Vietnamese family. Cost of my ride back to Da Nang is just about the same as arriving, a total of 211,000 dong or $11 CAD.
The house I was taken to is on Quang Xuong Road across from a small hardware shop.
Mission successful! I had my doubts for the majority of the morning, but with perseverance and kindness, was able to locate and see this unique and historical craft that has been carried on by generations of this beautiful family. I feel so lucky today and am forever grateful for this treasured time.
