When I was in Chiang Mai last year, my focus was mainly inside the old city walls. Seeing Thai temples for the first time, especially those ancient ones, was all consuming. This visit, my interest has strayed to the older neighbourhoods outside those walls. Particularly, to the beautiful traditional Thai Lanna houses. I see these scattered in amongst the new construction, and they are charming and fascinating.
Brief History
Chiang Mai is a city that was first constructed in the late 13th century. The people of the Lanna Kingdom and their king, called this area home. Situated in the Ping Valley, surrounded by mountains, it offered a safe and remote haven.
For the next 600 years, the city fell under different rulers until finally in 1923 it was absorbed into Siam. Up until the railway was built in 1920, the only way to reach Chiang Mai was by skiff up the Ping River, or overland through the jungle by elephant.
Chiang Mai consisted mainly of the 1-mile square town, bordered by its brick walls and moat, surrounded by rice fields. Besides that, there was only lush and dense jungle.
Almost all of the buildings that encompass the city today, have appeared in the last 80 years or so. What you can still catch glimpses of however, are these traditional old wooden houses, built by the Lanna people. They have grabbed my attention and I’ve become obsessed in the best of ways.
Lanna Traditional House Museum
Besides trying to spot these beauties in the streets, I have discovered this amazing open-air museum. It contains eight houses, 7 of which have been relocated to the property, the eighth is in situ. Cost to enter is 100baht or $4 CAD.
The land is a serene grassy escape and the houses are scattered throughout the property. Walking from one to the other, without a single other tourist on site, is an incredible experience. I’m excited to showcase some of these homes to you now.
Kalae Houses
There are two of these located at the museum, one called Oui Paad and the other Phaya Wong. Paad was built in 1913 and is a compact one bedroom and single kitchen with terraces. Wong was constructed around 1897 and consists of two houses side by side, joined by a large terrace.
Two features make Kalae houses unique. The first being those tails you see protruding at the peaks of the roof. Usually these were carved, often in the shapes of birds. These gables would extend one half meter each, and were a significant structural component to the early roofs covered with bamboo leaves.
The second feature of these houses is the carved panel above the door to the bedroom called Hum Yontra. The direct translation of the word ‘Hum’ is testicle, and refers to the power spot of men.
The word ‘Yontra’ refers to the prevention of dangers. The width of the Hum Yontra is based upon the foot length of the male in the household who brings in the highest earnings. Using his foot length was a way to suppress evil spirits and warn away anyone who may enter with sinful intentions.
The panel was carved after the piece of wood was added above the doorway and mantras chanted all the while the carving was taking place. As you can tell, the Lanna people are very superstitious and have many religious beliefs that combined, create fascinating glimpses into their daily lives.
Long-Khao Pedang
Estimated to be over 150 years old, this building is actually a rice granary owned by a wealthy family. Visitors will notice all of these structures are raised on stilts. The buildings were specifically designed for the environment which is prone to flooding and to protect them from predators.
Climbing up the steep ladder and into the granary, one is instantly transported back in time. The entire structure is surrounded by an intricately carved railing. The feeling inside, especially early in the morning, with the golden sunlight filtering through, is nothing short of enchanting.
The farm implements, wagons and such, are stored below the granary, in the space between the stilts. There are a number of old agricultural pieces to see here, absolute treasures to that early way of life.
Ruean Mai Bue
These are the early temporary bamboo houses. They were typically built by newlyweds or those starting a family. Until the couple had saved enough money for wood, the only alternative was to use bamboo.
By binding, tying and securing the bamboo with ropes and rattan, these houses could be constructed quickly. Even though they were only expected to be used for a short while, they are raised up on stilts. The small interior is mostly used as the sleeping room and the kitchen space is out back.
Tai-Lue House
This house was built in 1917 and donated to the museum after the last remaining owner, the grandmother passed away at the age of 107. Tai-Lue is a large sleeping house with the bedroom always located on the east side of the house.
The kitchen is on the west side, and showcases an indoor clay stove raised above the flooring. Here is a great place to see various pieces of kitchenware from that era.
Underneath the house, is a large space for storage of not only farm equipment but fishing and animal traps too. These are all made of bamboo and reeds and are a fascinating feature.
Toilets
The houses all have bedrooms and kitchens but where are the loos you might wonder? These were always located at least 40 meters away from the dwelling. The ‘bathing room’ was constructed of eye level bamboo slats or brick walls. Inside one would find a large clay barrel of fresh water and a ladle. The toilet was a deep pit, next to, but separate from the bathing room.
Features
There are specific features that I found especially interesting while exploring this museum. One such are the sliding walls. In some cases, the entire wall of the house, slides about 6 inches one direction. This is to allow light and cross breezes through the space. With the carved panels built in such a way, this is a brilliant alternative to traditional windows.
Old door handles and locks, most of which were made with wood, are a feature I found particularly charming.
Another thing to see in each and every building are the Buddhist altars and spirit shelves. With their beliefs so strongly entrenched, the unique spaces provided for devotion are touching and quintessential to these houses.
Houses Around Town
It would be remiss of me to not show you what I have discovered on my walk-about-towns. These are a small sample of Lanna houses, most of which have been modified and renovated, that exist in the city. There is a specific neighbourhood within the Old Walls that is particularly interesting and has a number of these homes. In the small streets and alleys between Wat Jetlin and Samlarn Rd, find a peaceful space to experience old Chiang Mai.
When ever I spot one, I try to scrape away all of the modernity and view it as it once was. So utterly charming and lovely, these teak dwellings. It does make me sad to know that these are so few and far between now.
Chiang Mai is a city full of fascinating things to see. The Old Town garners most tourists’ attention, for there are the plethora of restaurants and trendy cafés. The oldest temples, markets and street food are also an enormous draw. But look around, explore further afield, and the city will delight you with its hidden gems.
