One thing I knew I wanted to see on this short visit to Seville is Plaza de Espana. If you google this city, almost the first image to pop up is of this magnificent space. Having only a handful of days to choose from, even though the weather was overcast, I headed out. The beautiful Plaza de Espana at dawn is breathtaking.
Getting There
A quick google search will show you that this large and expansive plaza is located in one corner of a massive park called Parque de Maria Luisa. I’ll put a link here for the google map. Walking towards the park in the dark was a little daunting, especially when I was not familiar with the city. I felt completely safe though, wandering those old stone streets on my own and found my way.
Plaza de Espana is central to many other places in Seville so once you are finished, have a look around and be surprised at what else is close by. Within walking distance is the Real Alcazar, Palacio de San Telmo, Costerero de la Reina and the Seville Cathedral.
Brief History
This is not an old place, well I guess ‘old’ is relative. Built less than 100 years ago, in 1928, Plaza de Espana, as far as European history is practically new. Constructed for the Worlds Fair, the plaza was used to showcase Spain’s industry and technology exhibits.
The style of the buildings are a mixture of Art Deco, Renaissance and Baroque Revival architecture. Today all of these buildings have been converted into government offices and the entire structure is still in use behind the scenes.
Arrival at Dawn
When I set out from my Airbnb, I had no idea what to expect. I had of course seen photos of the Plaza, but had purposely not looked into details. I wanted to approach with feelings of naivety as to what I was going to see. This was a perfect plan, for when I first realized I was at the plaza, turned to the left and saw my very first glimpse, I was completely overwhelmed.
The sky was a darker turquoise and all the ornate external lights were still aglow. There was not a single sole in this entirely massive space, other than myself. The feelings of vastness, joy and witnessing exquisite architecture simultaneously was magnificent.
Moat & Bridges
In front of the semi-circle of buildings and encompassing the main fountain, is a large and wide moat. Here there are fish and ducks living happily in unison.
Four exquisitely tiled bridges span the moat and visitors can walk over and gain a completely new perspective of the plaza. The amount and beauty of these Mediterranean tiles that adorn the bridges is beautiful beyond words. Make a point of walking down to the waters edge so you can see the sides of the bridges too.
Alcoves of the Provinces
My very favourite part of Plaza de Espana are the alcoves of the provinces. Did you know Spain has 50 provinces? Visitors come from all over Spain and take their photo inside the alcove that represents their home territory. The tiles that cover each alcove have been specifically designed to represent the beauty and history of each province. A tile map is on the ground showing its placement within the country.
Flanking each side, are small tiled bookshelves that support a free library system. Visitors can place pamphlets and books into these, and others can sit a read them or take them if they wish. How lovely. I found the Barcelona alcove and had to have my photo taken there. It is my only connection with Spain, being the one place I have visited previously, and where my sister resided for many years.
Daybreak
After I had wandered around for half an hour in the darkness, the electric lights were turned off as the sky was lightening. Even though it was overcast and white, the plaza took on a hush and quietness that I have a hunch is quite rare.
More people began to show around 9am and tour groups by 9:30. A gentle rain started to fall which was likely keeping many people at bay, tucked inside their hotels.
I however, took this opportunity to wander through the covered walkway and explore from end to end. I was able to peek into some of the offices and see the beauty that resides inside.
Central Tower
One place where visitors can explore further is the largest and central tower. Here find two staircases flanking a gorgeous vaulted wooden ceiling.
Up on the top level the views are magnificent and I cannot image how much more this would be on a bright and sunny day. Here you can gain a different perspective of the plaza and realize how large it is.
Plaza de Espana in Seville is truly a most beautiful place to see. I am happy this was the first sight I chose to see in the city. Cost is completely free, stay as long as you like and even take a boat ride if they are operating. What a treasure this astonishing marvel is to the city of Seville.
