I had seen a few photos of the famous bridge in the city, but nothing prepared me for this charming place. Most of my time is spent exploring early in the mornings, before the hoards of day trippers arrive. The beautiful Old Town Mostar takes my breath away every time.
Brief History
Mostar was the historical capital city of Herzegovina and was named such after the bridge keepers (mostari) who guarded the most famous bridge here, Stari Most or The Old Bridge.
Evidence of Roman presence has been found under the town, but very little if anything remains now. Prior to 1486 when the Ottoman Empire came under rule, there existed a small settlement of traders.
Mostar was fortified during the years of 1520 to 1566 when the original wooden bridge was rebuilt in stone. At the beginning of the Austro-Hungarian rule in 1878, the town was broadened to include wide avenues and large buildings, mostly on the west side of the river.
Stari Most
Quite possibly the most photographed part of the Old Town is this incredibly beautiful stone bridge. From any angle, whether down on the river bank or viewing from a neighbouring bridge, this one is the star.
There are two fortified towers, one on each side, that provide a particularly charming enhancement to the entire bridge scene.
Prior to the stone version was a wooden one suspended on cables. It became so treacherous to pass over, people feared for their lives. The stone version was started in 1557 and took nine years to complete. It was designed by a student and apprentice and the builder threatened with death to construct this bridge of unprecedented proportions.
Mimar Hayriddin, the builder, prepared for his death the day the scaffolding was removed. When completed, it was the widest human made arch in the world.
Stari Most stood strong until it was heavily shelled and destroyed in 1993 during the Bosnian War. The version we see today was rebuild to original proportions and opened in 2004.
East Bank
With the Neretva River running through Old Town, the result is two distinct sides that were originally two separate towns. On the east bank today, visitors will find bright and colourful stone buildings with arched windows and cascading flowers.
Original iron doors open in the morning to reveal all sorts of souvenir shops, cafรฉs and restaurants. The cobble stone streets that wander through this side are a little hazardous, as these stones are worn glossy, with centuries of pedestrian passage. The stones are also quite large, so tread safely here.
West Bank
Across the river, and now on the side that has expanded the most, is the other small part of Old Town. This area is a clamour of old stone buildings, constructed almost on top of each other.
Another small bridge is tucked in here, called Crooked Bridge. Visitors can wander all through these tiny alleys and staircases, to find hidden gems and peaceful little courtyards.
This is also the side of Old Town, where one can walk down a ramp and access the rivers edge. Here find make shift bars, take a seat and enjoy the sounds of flowing emerald water. Or even go for a swim if you are brave enough to tackle one of the coldest rivers in the world!
Old Town will fill you with wonder and beauty. If you really want a good feel for this enchanting place, spend a few nights and explore early in the mornings or after dinner time. Day trippers will have a vastly different perspective than I, for by 10am, the streets are simply too crowded with tourists for me.
