Readers know by now how much I adore visiting markets in every destination I travel to. They are one of my favourite ways to experience the culture, see the local handicrafts and immerse myself into everyday life. Well, I found some gems here. Don’t miss the amazing Mutrah Souq, gold & fish markets on your next visit to Muscat.
Brief History
The Mutrah Souq is one of the oldest in the Arab world having been around for the past 200 years. This port is where goods have been traded, arriving from all around the world, for centuries. When the Lawati people from India settled here in the 18th century, the souk was expanded significantly.
Originally called Al-Dhalam, meaning ‘darkness’, it consists of a labyrinth of dim narrow alleys bustling with commerce. Shopping for textiles, precious metals, frankincense, souvenirs and spices is mainly what this market is about.
Structure
The current structure of the main part of Mutrah Souq was constructed in the 1970’s. Large timbre beams, colourful glass and light fixtures create a space that is truly enchanting. Parts of the ceiling are painted with intricate designs.
The main entrance is a two-story tower at the corniche. There is a significant rear entrance located beside a mosque. Multiple other hidden entrances/exits are available from the maze of smaller alleys leading out from the central pavilion.
Frankincense
If you have the privilege of travelling to Oman, you will have smelled this heavenly scent as early as your arrival into the airport. There machines are emitting a smoky vapor while you wait in line for passport control. This is frankincense.
So important to the culture, it is locally known as ‘luban’ or white gold. Most of the Omani frankincense is harvested in a UNESCO Heritage sight called the Land of Frankincense in the Dhofar Mountains. Each spring, the bark of the trees are sliced into, and 10 days later, the sap that has leaked from those incisions is collected. The whiter almost silver sap is the most expensive and precious. The darker shades are the least expensive.
It is no wonder when you are shopping in Oman you will see frankincense being sold everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Bags and bags of the crystals and entire shops dedicated to it are all around.
How to burn frankincense? You purchase a censer, many of which are made locally using pottery and clay. Small pieces of charcoal are lit in the bowl, when hot, the crystals are placed on top and they begin to smolder. Its this smoke that is the aromatic essence I can’t get enough of. It is heavenly.
Textiles
Mutrah Souq contains hundreds of stalls many of which are loaded with textiles. Most of these are not local handicrafts, instead they are mass produced ‘pashmina’ and ‘cashmere’ scarves. In a land where the hijab is worn, visitors will find scarves of every shape, fabric and style. The amount of clothing is excessive here. Lots of local styles, abaya shops, tailors, Pakistani and Bangladesh cultural pieces. The cacophony of colours and bling will keep your brain buzzing for hours.
Carpets, Spices & Antiques
Carpet shops, oh how I love these. From hand dyed raw wool that the Bedouins make, to refined silk with the most incredible detailing. And the array of colourful spices! A feast for the eyes. Lets not walk past those piles of antiques either, large wooden trunks and doors so intricately and beautifully carved.
Vintage Bedouin Jewellery
Not precious metals, but what the locals refer to as Bedouin silver. Big, bold ethnic pieces of jewellery that are incredible to see, are loaded into shops in the Mutrah Souq. These necklaces, earrings, belts, bracelets and beads are extraordinary. Beads, oh my, every stone, coral, metal, shape, colour and size. It’s a paradise for jewelry lovers and vintage seekers.
Gold & Silver
With the current prices, I have not entered a single shop, but that doesn’t stop me from planting myself at their windows and salivating. There is a separate souk for the Gold, a large one that has several alleys that branch off the main indoor portion.
Windows dripping with that bright yellow 18k and 22k jewelry are incredible to see. Huge pieces, full torso and complete headdresses used in weddings, decorate the front displays. Large bangles, big glittery earrings and lavish necklaces taunt me with their beauty. If you are shopping for gold or silver, you won’t be disappointed in Mutrah.
Fish Souk
Finally, I’ll write about the Fish Souq. Located at the opposite end of the bay, at the far side of the Mutrah Corniche is this large white structure. Inside on the left is a massive room filled with vendors selling the freshest catch of the day. Huge tuna, being weighed and bartered for is a fascinating process to watch. Towards the rear is a cleaning station. Any fish you purchase, can be cleaned and processed right there to your personal specifications.
Across the courtyard is another area and here fresh produce is being sold. Lots of local vegetables and fruits are available as are the ever-precious dates. Both the fish and this section feel quite sterile to me, but I understand why it was necessary to create such a space for visitors.
A Secret
If you want an entirely authentic experience, wake up early one morning, say 5:30-6:30am and head down to the dock area behind the fish souk. Here the fishermen are bringing their catch to shore from the small boats. The larger vessels have off loaded these huge white tanks earlier, and now they are being opened and sold.
I was the only foreigner and female and it was a complete pleasure to be welcomed by these hard-working gents into their space. I watched as the largest tuna were being haggled over and purchased, perhaps for restaurants and butcher shops.
Others were loading smaller fish, silvery sardines and such, into wheel barrows and carting them back and forth to the souq. Cats were everywhere vying for tidbits for breakkie and a family of dogs was present too. A local fella picked up a puppy and handed the tiny mite to me, shaking and nervous. Its all I could do to pet the little thing and pass him back. The man told me he will take that one home when it gets a little bigger.
Being in Mutrah and having the experiences I have been blessed with is nothing short of amazing. Whether you are off the cruise ships and only have a few hours to select some treasures, or staying here longer, these souqs are gems. Walking from one to the other takes perhaps five minutes, all vendors are friendly. I find the least aggressive attempts here to entice me into their shops. It really is such a pleasure to explore these markets.
