I have previously decided that on this trip to Jordan, I will be relying on public transpiration. I am a budget traveller, and after doing my research, this was the cheapest option for me. Although many will suggest you hire a driver for Jordan, the bus is limited but doable. Come travel on the Rum Bus from Petra to Wadi Rum with me.
What is the ‘Rum Bus’
This nickname is given to a small sized passenger bus that is currently transporting folks between these two areas in southern Jordan. Before Covid, the larger bus company called JETT, ran a regularly scheduled service each day at 5pm. But since then, and certainly with the lack of tourists here currently, this is unavailable.
Tickets, Cost & Booking
The cost at the date of writing, to take the Rum Bus from Petra (Wadi Musa) to Wadi Rum is 10DR ($20 CAD). This is paid in cash to the ‘guide’. This bus operates on a flexible schedule, meaning the driver typically won’t depart until the bus has enough passengers that he feels the trip is worth it.
Booking is done through your accommodation in Petra. Ask your front desk staff and they will make a phone call and arrange everything for you. The bus is scheduled to depart Wadi Musa at 6am every day. No need to go to a departure point, as your hotel will arrange with the driver for you to be picked up there. What a service!
One thing to note, depending on how full the bus is, it typically cannot accommodate large pieces of luggage as there is simply no storage compartment.
Departure
For some reason, unbeknownst to me, I was actually dropped off by my hotel chef for my ride. He took me to a location in downtown Wadi Musa where I met the driver Mohammad and the guide, Waheeb. My suitcase was fitted into the front row and myself beside it, directly behind the driver. We set off at 6:10 and picked up a total of five more travellers from different hotels around the town.
After everyone was onboard, two stops were made right before we hit the road. The first was to pick up these massive wheels of piping hot bread. And the second was to get what turned out to be fresh hummus and hotter than hot, falafel balls.
Breakfast
As we head out of town, the bread is passed around so each of us can tear off a chunk. It was so hot it burned my fingers. Waheeb then gives us each a falafel ball. What an unexpected treat!
Because I am just behind these two gents, I get offered more food. Out of the compartment between the two front seats, Mohammad has pulled an old plastic water bottle full of green fluid. As we are bumping along, he pours this into the hummus. I am invited to dip my bread into this golden elixir. When I tell you this is the most flavourful olive oil I have ever tasted in my life, its true.
What a surreal experience. Picture me, bouncing along on the highway in the middle of Jordan. Its dark, the sun is just creeping above the horizon. I’m munching on hot bread, hummus and falafel with olive oil dripping down my chin. I’ve got the biggest grin across my face that won’t go away.
Middle
This three-hour journey is spent watching the sunrise and undulating terrain of the countryside. As we travel along, we pass various checkpoints. Some the driver comes to a stop at, and has a little chat with the police manning the post. Others we seem to merely slow down for.
The views are of distant jebals, sand and rocks. Most of the passengers seem to be sleeping, I however am wide awake, taking in all of the journey.
Wadi Rum Check-Point
Now getting close to our destination we make two stops. The first is at the Wadi Rum check point and visitor’s centre. Waheeb has already taken care of all of our details earlier such as inquiring if we had a Jordan Pass, and finding out which camps we are each going to.
If you are arriving here in a rental vehicle or with a guide, these are details you will be required to tell the officials here. If you did not purchase a Jordan Pass before arriving into the country, this is where you are going to pay the current fee of 5DR for your entrance in to Wadi Rum.
Drop Off
Now past the Visitors Centre, we drive another 22km. There are over 200 camps at Wadi Rum. The majority are inside the Protected Zone; however, a growing number are outside. Our first passenger is dropped off here, quite a ways outside the zone. He is staying at a luxury resort.
As we enter the ‘village’, a small settlement where most of the Bedouins live, now the rest of us are going to be dropped off at various points depending upon which camp we are staying at. Our respective camps have all been notified of our arrive by Waheeb, and drivers are sent to come and collect us.
Wadi Rum village, is a very humble place. This is the last location where visitors will find a shop to purchase food, snacks and water. If you have arrived in your own vehicle, this is where you will be required to park it for the duration of your visit. Private vehicles are now allowed in the Wadi Rum protected zone.
As I hop off the Rum Bus, I am met by a young Bedouin. He loads my suitcase into the back of the truck and we are off. We drive a further 8km through the desert sands until we arrive and my home for the next few days. My camp. Its mid morning, utterly freezing and I’m feeling both nervous and elated to finally be here.
