Podgorica is the second least visited capital city in Europe. Often dubbed as ‘boring’, I am here and hoping to find not only why that is, but what there actually is to see. Always drawn to historical places, the first area I explore is the oldest part of the city. What remains of Stara Varos or Old Town Podgorica Montenegro is interesting.
Brief History
Stara Varos is the Ottoman era section of the city and was the central part of Podgorica between the 15th & 19th centuries. During the latter years of WWII, Podgorica was occupied by the Germans, and is at this time that it was virtually wiped off the map.
Heavily bombed by the Allies from 1943 to 1944 with over 270 tonnes of bombs dropped, the city was flattened. Very few of the historical buildings survived. This is what I see in Old Town today.
The Clock Tower
One of a handful of tourist sights in the city is the old clock tower. This is the only remaining intact structure of Old Town. Built in 1667 by a wealthy citizen, the Italian clock mechanism was added in 1890.
At the same time, a cross was added to the top of the tower, symbolizing the change from Ottoman to Christian Montenegrins. Located in Becir Beg Osmanagic Square, it appears odd and alone standing there.
Ribnica Fortress
Built on a precipice above the Moraca and Ribnica Rivers is the remains of this Ottoman fortress. Constructed around 1477, visitors can explore this area freely today. There is no portion that is roped off for preservation, and in fact, vehicles are parking right up beside parts of it.
For a long time, the fort was used as an ammunition’s warehouse until it was struck by lightning in 1878 and a section exploded. The most recognizable area is a small portion of wall along the Moraca River. The rest consists of a few round bases, some square shaped buildings and broken walls. The area is very picturesque, located with those two sparkling rivers down below and an abundance of green space and trees.
The Old Bridge
Originally built by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, this is the oldest bridge in Podgorica. Most of what we can see today was constructed in the 18th century by the Ottomans. This beautiful stone bridge crosses the Ribnica river right before it joins the Moraca.
A very pretty sight set amongst the towering shade trees, there is a bar near the base and during the summer, this is a popular swimming spot and hang out for the locals.
Osmanagic Mosque
An important surviving structure in the Old Town is the Osmanagic Mosque. Built in the early 1700’s, it was heavily damaged in WWII but lovingly restored in 1997. The minaret towers above the streets and beckons visitors and locals alike.
The grounds contain a tomb that the builder created for himself. He is the same wealthy patron who built the clock tower as well.
Streets
I walked around the streets of Old Town extensively, letting myself get lost in the maze. I want to see exactly what is left of this part of the city. By far, most of the remaining stone structures are the walls that line the streets.
From time to time I find an original doorway, the old wooden doors themselves long gone, but the archways still intact. There is one in particular that is utterly charming, especially the iron hardware.
To my surprise, there are a handful of old dwellings that survive. They are quite plain but beautiful to see their existence at all. Most appear to be abandoned. Two in particular are quite sizable.
I have no idea of this, but my hope is that these are being preserved, waiting for someone with enough funding to come along. Someone with a vision who can rehabilitate and revitalize these beautiful old stone structures.
It is sad to see so little left of the history of this city. Now that I am here, I can better understand what happened. I can relate to tourists not visiting, as there is very little to actually see and do in Podgorica. The Stara Varos or Old Town is still a gem to me. The labyrinth of streets, little snippets of centuries gone by and historical essence survives.
