Two things’ visitors to Lucca can see for a small fee are these. Both are located inside the historical core and only a six-minute walk apart. One is a palace that is partially open to the public, and the gardens are accessible too. The other, the only remaining medieval family tower, of the 250 that once filled the city. Not to be missed Palazzo Pfanner & Guinigi Tower in Lucca, for beautiful views and opulent history.
Palazzo Pfanner
Arriving here, it was actually the gardens I noticed from the street and inquired about viewing. They looked divine in the mid day sunshine and just what I wanted to experience. At the ticket counter, I was told for a mere €2 more, I could see the apartments in the palace as well. Sold!
Not having a clue what to expect, what I found was fascinating! A view inside life as it was, in a palace built in 1660. Originally home to wealthy silk merchants, the most recent owners are the Pfanner family.
Felix Pfanner from Austria, acquired the entire structure after setting up his brewery there in 1846. From 1920 to 1922 the mayor of Lucca was a distinguished doctor named Pietro Pfanner, and it is his collection of medical instruments that are displayed throughout the apartment.
Each room has been lovingly restored to its original condition, with frescoes, furniture, lighting and everyday items as they would have been.
Pfanner Gardens
These smaller but exquisite Italian baroque gardens were created for the palace residents in the 18th century. They can be seen from up above, while walking on the Renaissance walls, but the real beauty lies within.
At the intersection of paths, find a large shallow fountain surrounded by statues depicting the deities of Greek Olympus. Beside that is a wide expanse of lawn and towards the back, the quintessential lemon house. All of those potted lemons are brought inside the house for the coldest winter months. This not only protects the plants, but provides a lovely area for winter garden parties.
To one side of the fountain is the lush bamboo and hyacinth path with benches for a quiet respite. The Pfanner Garden is one of soft opulence and beauty and a real treasure.
Guinigi Tower
In the relatively small historical city of Lucca, at one time there were over 250 medieval towers crowding the skyline! An unfathomable number, as most were owned by individual families. There remain several towers today, but almost all are bell towers that belong to the churches. The only surviving family tower is the Guinigi, all others were destroyed in the 16th century.
Possibly the most famous tower in the city, it was constructed in the early 1300’s of stone and bricks. When the last descendants passed away the tower was given to the City of Lucca. What makes this one extra special, is the garden located on the top that includes eight full size oak trees!
To reach those gardens, one must climb 230 steps, the last set becoming so narrow, they are barely over a foot wide.
Emerging into the garden is something unique and special but of course the views quickly grab your attention. What a magnificent way to see the city sprawling out before one’s eyes. To walk under mature oak trees while standing atop a 700-year-old brick tower is truly a surreal feeling.
For less than €8 each, both of these historical places are well worth the time and cost involved. Each one provides a learning experience and sights that you never knew existed or even imagined. A dried foetus? I bet that wasn’t on your dance card for your visit to Lucca!
