Having travelled to a few Balkan countries now, I feel I have an idea of what to expect. Each one is different of course, but many of them have a similar and familiar recent history that unites them. Here are my first impressions of Skopje Macedonia.
Beggars
Right from the get go, on that initial drive from the airport I see a discrepancy in wealth that hasn’t been as visible in the other Balkan countries. At two intersections, small dishevelled and dirty children, approach the vehicle and try to wipe the windows. My driver waves them away.
I saw female beggars on the streets in Podgorica, and males near the shops in Sicily. But this is the first time seeing children since I was in Tirana last fall. Now that I have had the chance to walk around a bit, I can see mostly males, laying on the ground with a box or can on the pavement in front of them.
Chaotic
I have booked my Airbnb in a neighbourhood that the host has referred to as ‘Bohemian’. Now that I’m here, I realize this charming adjective is referring to an area that is rough around the edges. From my initial forages to find food and water, this seems to be the norm.
The main streets and large boulevards are easily walkable and pleasant. The side streets however are where the city lives and breathes. These have an abundance of dated apartment buildings with unfinished exteriors, construction and old abandoned buildings squeezed between. Graffiti absolutely everywhere, broken sidewalks, garbage overflowing from community bins. Cars travelling up on sidewalks, cutting corners and lots of large mature trees. It feels chaotic, unorganized, like the city that doesn’t know if its coming or going.
Statues
Oh boy, there may be more statues in this city than any other on the planet. From a little research I know this was done fairly recently, as a way to add interest and attract tourists. From a tourist’s point of view, its pretty incredible and strange.
And they aren’t small! These are massive, most are figural and of men, and many are holding firearms. Its such a strange visual when you stand in one place near the river, turn around 360 degrees, and see probably 25 statues.
Weather
Its hot! I thought the temperatures might be cooling a little by now, but most days are still over 30 degrees. Really lovely crisp mornings, but by noontime, that heat is present. I love it, and wish my little deck had sunshine. Alas, I will have to spend more time near the river if I am to bask as much as I want to.
Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, is so far a very interesting place to be indeed! My brain is struggling to make sense of it. I’m still not sure if I feel safe here or if I have to have my guard up more than it normally is. Such a juxtaposition, I can’t wait to dig deeper and see what the city is all about.
