To appreciate the beauty and size of the historical parts of this capital city, it is imperative to reach a height. Here are two ways to accomplish this. The first one you can simply walk from anywhere near the corniche and for the other you will need a vehicle. Muttrah Fort & Al-Bustan for the best views of Old Muscat are worth every effort.
Muttrah Fort
Let’s start here, simply because, well, it’s a cool historical fort! Original construction date to as early as 1507 however in the 1580’s it was modified and enlarged by the Portuguese. Used primarily as a watch tower, it was outfitted with cannons to guard the harbour from Ottoman invaders.
To visit today, arrive at the entrance and pay the 3 OMR ($12 CAD) fee. Climb the rather steep staircase to the top, it doesn’t take long but can be a challenge for some. Now there isn’t’ much to see inside the actual fort. It’s the views that will provide the biggest thrill. Walk around both of the towers and along the curtain wall. See the old cannons and a WWII gun. I arrived early in the morning before the cruise shippers were on land, and had the entire fort to myself.
The views are 360 degrees of the Gulf of Oman and the Hajar Mountains, a stunning and rugged landscape that will take your breath away. A murder of crows followed me around the entire time, from their first greeting point on the stairs as I climbed up. It was a delight to share these magical views with such curious and intelligent creatures.
Al-Bustan Viewpoint
This next place, I would never have known about if it weren’t for my original Airbnb host. He includes breakfast for his guests and most of these are served on the rooftop terrace of the apartment. For me, he provided an excursion one morning and it was to this viewpoint. It is not a long drive from the corniche, perhaps 15 minutes or so. On the way, we stop to pick up a fried bread called lola, and the next stop is for dal and tea. These I offered to pay for and my host kindly agreed.
Once we had our brekkie in hand, we drove the short ways, climbing through the rugged mountains. A huge canyon in the area is called Al-Bustan, hence the name. It is from the top of this canyon that we park in a massive pullout, specifically for visitors to take in the magnificent views.
Breakfast
Before I know it, the back of the land cruiser is opened and a table, chairs and pretty tablecloth appear. Next my host lays out plates and cups and I bring out the newly acquired food from the cab.
With breakkie plated, Muhammed and I take our seats overlooking the exceptional view of the canyon and Muttrah harbour in the distance. It is the perfect place to see the oldest parts of Muscat from, as there is not just one area, but several. These are separated by the natural terrain of the mountains. Al-Bustan provides a view of the old city where the Sultans palace and ministerial offices are located.
After the most delicious dal and lola bread was consumed, my host then pulls out the camp stove and proceeds to make us Omani coffee! How fun. The taste is quite unique, almost like a cloudy tea with a prominent flavour of cardamon.
There are a myriad of hiking trails from this pullout and viewpoint. If you are so inclined, this would be a perfect spot to park and take a hike or even camp. I have seen photos of people with their tents pitched here. Food for thought.
Such a pleasure seeing the oldest parts of the capital city from above. From a comical conversation with crows to the philosophical ones with Muhammed, these experiences are what make my travels and yours, unique and precious.
