A visit to the Marsaxlokk Sunday Market is going to be one of the things that is suggested you do whilst visiting Malta. I have posted all about that previously. What I will showcase today, is the town itself, the gorgeous marina, traditional boats, fort, restaurants and beaches! Marsaxlokk, a sleepy fishing village with a big draw is worth making a day trip out of.
Brief History
These beautiful seas off the coast here have been fished since Phoenician times. There is no wonder a little village eventually emerged after the Ottoman conflict was concluded. The first houses were constructed around the year 1846. By the end of the 19th century, the first church was built. As more and more fishermen arrived from the nearby city of Zejtun, the population grew to what it is today at roughly 3,500 people.
The Bay
A beautifully sheltered and relatively shallow bay lies here on the South East coast of Malta. Because of the presence of a natural beach, it was a perfect area for boats to come ashore. After a seawall was constructed, the bay quickly became a popular docking place for larger fishing boats.
Marsaxlokk is the perfect place to come to admire and study the traditional wooden fishing boats called ‘luzzu’ and ‘kajjik’.
Traditional Boats
I must say that one of the reasons I fell in love with Malta the first time I visited, was because of these boats. They are incredibly charming, painted with bright and vibrant colours and each seems to have small details that make them unique.
One will notice that many of them have an ‘eye’. This has been a tradition since Phoenician times and represents protection and good luck for the fishermen.
These boats were developed in the 17th century and maintain a strong connection to Malta’s past. Each year, a national regatta takes place in the Grand Harbour and it is luzzu that are used in the races!
Historically these boats were propelled by oars and a sail, but since the 1920’s engines have replaced these components. Luzzu and kajjik are no longer being made, and are in decline. Marsaxlokk is the perfect place to come and admire a great number of them.
Village
I was interested to see what is remaining of the original village. The answer is not much. I found the oldest church (there are two now) but most of the houses have been replaced.
Gone are most of the old balconied townhouses, replaced with the newer generic variety. From higher up on the streets, the view is beautiful, looking down on the turquoise waters of the bay.
The Coastline
Marsaxlokk is the perfect place to come if you wish to immerse yourself in the natural coastline of the island. Here find bright white limestone cliffs breaking apart and falling into the sea below.
Fields of wheat and other agricultural products make for picturesque views across the land. The low stone walls that divided properties, and the terraced farm land that leads down the slope to the waters edge is incredibly beautiful.
There are several loops one can hike around the old village to see it from afar and view the natural landscapes that are coastal Malta.
Fort San Lucian
I saw this massive structure from the bus and had to check it out. Close enough to walk to from town, it took me about 20 minutes to reach. I walked up through the village, then around to the fort on a quiet road, to avoid the busy main road into Marsaxlokk. The fort itself is closed, but definitely walk around the back for a 360 degree view from all angles including the old moat.
The original tower was built by the Order of Saint John in 1610. In 1715 an artillery battery was added and finally in the 1790’s it was upgraded to a fort. After that, the British redesigned part of it and that is what we see today. Fort San Lucian is the second largest fort in Malta!
The Beaches
There are two sandy beaches here! Yes, sand! A rarity in Malta I must add. The first and original beach is tucked right in at one end of the bay closest to the fort. Here the sand is a little darker and there is natural debris from the water, such as seaweed. This little beach is called Ghar Ahmar Bay.
The second beach I found, and so incredibly beautiful, is at the opposite end of the bay. It almost appears to be newly manufactured or enhanced, as there is quite a bit of construction equipment nearby.
Absolutely covered with tiny twirly shells, this white sand beach is glorious. You bet I was taking my shoes off within seconds of emerging onto that sand. The water is crystal clear, nice and cool and the scene couldn’t be prettier.
Restaurants
I chose to make a day trip out of Marsaxlokk and as such, decided that I would treat myself to my one and only restaurant meal in Malta. There are numerous seafood restaurants all along the bay, and I selected one called Ta’ Mattew. It had a little table tucked up the side street, away from the market crowds, that was calling my name.
Here I enjoyed a glass of rose and the regation salmon. When I tell you this was one of the best pasta dishes I have ever had in my life, I do not lie. It was simply stunning. The cost was hefty to my pocket book at €24 or $37 CAD. Ouch!!!
Marsaxlokk, even though it was an uncomfortable bus ride getting here, and an only slightly better one returning, for me it was worth the trip. If I had come just for the market, I would have been disappointed. However, with all of these added interesting sights and laying in the sunshine at the beach? It was definitely worth making a day trip out of for me.
