Somewhere I had read that the ancient peoples in this part of Sicily lived in caves, before the time of the stone houses I am seeing today. As I started my walk-a-bout towns, I kept an eye out, specifically on the rock faces. Le grotte – the cave homes are some of the coolest things I have discovered here in Modica.
Brief History
Incredibly brief and rudimentary, the ancient peoples of Sicily were of two tribes, the Sicani and the Siculi. The terrain in this part of Sicily is mountainous and hilly. Right here, long ago, two rivers joined and created terrific flooding in the valley. As a result, the people who inhabited the area, had to live high up on the hillsides.
These limestone hills are therefore riddled with their ancient grotte or cave homes. How cool is that! The oldest part of Modica is called Modica Alta. Here, the houses today have climbed one on top of the other, up the mountain on both sides of the valley. Many of the very oldest of these dwellings, incorporate the actual caves and mountain side into their space!
Two Areas
Exploring as much as I have, I have discovered two area’s that were clearly le grotte. One such area is on the side of Modica Alta where I am, the highest side with the Pizzo Belvedere view point.
There is a section of open caves with a metal fence in front. I can see into these dwellings, for there are no exterior walls any longer. In fact, this looks like it belongs to a villa now, and is part of their terraced farm.
On a road a little higher, there is another group of houses. Their exterior walls are so close to the rock, that the only logical conclusion is that the homes must be inside the mountain and incorporate a cave. Here it appears that people are still living in these dwellings and perhaps using a few of them for farm life and storage.
Across the Valley
A larger area that I have explored is across the valley from the highest Modica Alta. There is clearly a large stone face on this hillside. At the base of this face, and all along a very narrow path, are caves that all have exterior walls, doors and windows.
I believe many of these are still inhabited. I can see evidence of stove pipes, and some with electrical wiring coming from holes in the wall.
I am absolutely fascinated by these ancient cave homes. I would love to meet the inhabitants and be allowed inside one day, just to see how raw the interiors are. Perhaps the stone walls have been plastered and are smooth and clean. Or maybe they retain the beautiful light cream limestone appearance and are used as they were one thousand years ago.
