As soon as I heard about this, I knew it was something I was going to immediately seek out upon my arrival into the city. Happening over a relatively short season in winter, this is an event that is utterly unique and fun! It’s off to the camel races in Doha Qatar we go, not as part of a tour group but alone and without any knowledge of what I might see.
Where & When
It’s very difficult to get any information that is exact but this is what I have managed to compile from various sources. The place to go nearest Doha is called the Al Shahaniyah Camel Racetrack (link here). Located across the road from the racetrack is the housing and barns/stables for the camels. During race time there is on average 10,000 camels there!
Races run from November to the end of February each year. There are various classes and groups depending on who owns the camels. For example, the day I went, the camels racing all belonged to Sheiks, the previous week they had all belonged to various tribesmen. The races run almost daily; there are that many. Times vary but if you plan to be at the track between 1:30-4:30pm or from 6:30pm onwards, you will most likely catch some action.
At Al Shahaniyah there are three racetracks, an 8km, 4km and 2km. All are loops. The 8km track is the one closest to the grandstand finish line and the start line is just across the road. Beside the start line, is the staging areas, and these are full of camels, their handlers and officials.
Tours
Should you wish to do this as part of a tour that is definitely an option. The most inexpensive I could find was $165 CAD per person. That gets you out to the track and back, with a guide who will provide info along the way and during your trip. The best company for this is called Murex Tours. I decided to come on my own and the only expense was getting an Uber there and back at a cost of roughly $15 each way. The drive is approximately one hour long. The races themselves are free to attend and see.
Brief History
Camel racing has been a part of Qatari history dating back to the 7th century when Bedouins would have races to celebrate weddings and Eid. In 1972 the sport was modernized in Qatar and this race track was constructed. So entrenched in the culture are the races that it forms part of the UNESCO Intangible Heritage listing for the region.
The Robots
A curious feature of the Doha camel races are the robots that are perched on the backs of the animals. Up until 2005 the jockeys were human, and often children. After international backlash, the jockey position was given over to these little robots who even sport a head. When the camel is running, the robot continually swings an arm providing a repeated whack on the backside to keep the camel moving.
The Staging Area
Having no idea where to go, I began walking through the large staging area at the road, up towards the race track. I was getting stared at non-stop while I was making my way slowly, taking photos, and greeting everyone close by with a ‘As-salamu Alaykum’.
Soon enough some gents began pointing me towards what I now know is the start line. Besides the handlers, there are security type people in white shirts. It is these gents that I walked towards and then stood beside. They struck up conversation and asked where I was from, and providing some information on the race.
After a few minutes some handlers began to wave me over and this is when things got interesting. I was allowed right up into the waiting area, behind the start line. Men dressed as veterinarians are there with what look like portable metal detectors. They scan each camel, which contain a chip, to record which animals are in each race.
The Start Line
Soon enough I am waved up towards the start line itself. Handlers and officials are extremely friendly, wanting photos taken with me, asking where I am from, and the most common question, ‘Where is your man?’. 😂
There are multiple races happening most of the day and they seem to take place every 20 minutes or so. The 8km track where I was standing, takes the camels approximately 14 minutes to complete the loop.
Once the participating camels are lined up at the gate, the men tell me to stand back, which really isn’t that far, perhaps six feet. I crouch down, peering up at those beautiful animals as they are kept occupied and in place by the officials. With their faces right at the band of fabric on the gate, it is only a matter of minutes until they are let loose and oh my gosh what a sight! I can’t help but cheer them on.
The Race!
As soon as that gate rises, the camels are sent flying with yells and hollers by the handlers. The robot has started its whacking and they are on the move.
I watch perhaps six races from the start line, getting different vantages and such. Mingling with the men who are delightful and fun to be around. After one start, two errant camels turned around and began to run back towards us! The handlers and staff are prepared for such a thing, they quickly moved me back and closed a set of plastic gates, effectively trapping the camels on the track. Safety for every one, the number one priority.
The Grand Stand
During my afternoon visit I make my way across the street to the manicured grandstand area. This is where the finish line is. The stands are empty, as these races are not the ones that bring in the big money. They are more formalities to determine who is going to race on the big days.
Between the stands and the racetrack is a large green space filled with flowers. There are several jumbotrons on which to view the race as it is progressing. Under one of these a man stands and he offers me a piping hot cup of karak tea, what a treat! There is one single camel standing in a small area beside the grandstand. He is wearing a special coat, so I think he might be a winner for this day.
The Finish Line
Up I march across that beautiful green grass to the finish line. There are two officials there as the race is closing in and a camera man. I can see the camels in the distance now. They have separated considerably.
As they approach, I hear their laboured breathing and see foam caked across their mouths and faces. Poor beasts running in this heat, I think. As soon as they cross the line, the robot stops its arm swings and the camels instantly slow their pace. Handlers are there to herd them into the cooling down areas beyond the track.
Experience Like No Other
I should mention that for the entire duration of the race, the owners of the camels and any visitor who wishes to, can drive like a madman beside the track, racing alongside the camels. Owners do this to cheer them on, shouting and hollering and honking to keep the animals in motion.
Visitors do this as its an absolute thrill. During times of heated races, there is even a small bus that a visitor can hop on that will race down the track, if you don’t have access to a vehicle. If you do decide to drive along side the track, it’s an Indy 500 and the driver must keep their wits about them.
After spending a few hours up at the track and in a state of complete bewilderment and stimulation, I make my way back to the main road to await my Uber. While there, it is now around 4:30pm, camels are being brought from their stables towards the tracks in droves. Camel trains. Massive columns of the animals cross the road, blocking traffic for several minutes at a time. It is a gorgeous sight to see, and a beautiful ending to a perfect day of culture, excitement, interaction and the most unique experience for me.
