I have found such a fascinating destination in southern Spain. Not only is it beautiful, has an enormous sandy beach, an ancient old town and a ferry to Africa, but it has an island. Here are a few interesting facts about the Island of Tarifa.
The Islands History
Officially known as Isla de Las Palomas or Island of the Doves, many including the information signs located on site, refer to the land mass simply as Tarifa Island. Tarifa is the southern most place in all of continental Europe. But more specifically, the little island off the coast of Tarifa holds that significance.
You see, this land mass, larger than the actual old town of Tarifa has had quite a history. As early as 800BC, the Phoenicians were using this sacred ground as a burial sight. Located here are their tombs.
When the walls and the first castle of Tarifa were being built in the 10th century, the Muslims quarried the limestone from here. This drastically changed the landscape of the island to what we see today.
And in the mid 20th century, Isla de Tarifa was used by the Ministry of Defence and a large number of batteries were constructed. Just after this, the island was used as a detention centre for ‘foreigners in irregular situations.’
Today
In 2003 the island and its surrounding waters was given protection and declared the Straight of Gibraltar Natural Park.
When you walk towards it, there is a large iron gate that seems to be permanently closed. Except for early in the morning when the police drive down and let a group of fishermen in for a few hours. These men can be seen from the mainland, fishing off the rocky shoreline and into the big swells of the Mediterranean.
The Isthmus
In 1808 an isthmus or land bridge was constructed connecting the mainland with the island. Visitors can walk this road and it’s a terrific experience for many reasons.
Firstly, this isthmus is the official place where the Atlantic Ocean divides from the Mediterranean Sea! Stand facing the island and look to your right. There sprawling out is the big beautiful ocean. Now look to your left and see the magnificence of the Mediterranean. What a cool feeling!
There are a few bits of sculpture along the bridge to admire. Two pieces in bronze, one of hands clasping, signifying the friendship between Spain and Africa. And the other is a pair of well used hiking boots, poles and backpack.
The Bridge
Once you have walked the isthmus and are just about at the island gates, you will find yourself on an old stone bridge. When the tide is out it is possible to walk down the rocks on either side, to a sand bar and explore right under that bridge.
Looking up at those old stone footings and beach combing here is fun. I was lucky to find the area completely accessible and bare the first time I came down. Subsequent tries were met with far too much seaweed or high tides.
Playa Chica
Another beautiful thing about this area, is just to the left, as you are walking the isthmus towards the island, find a delightful little sandy beach, called Playa Chica.
Here brave swimmers dash into that freezing water for a dip, early in the morning. In the summer this is a popular place for families as the water is gentle for little swimmers. Its a picture-perfect spot to come and watch sunrises too.
The Winds
They are fierce! If you thought being in town was windy, wait until you are walking to the island. If they are particularly strong, you will want to cover your face as you pass by Chica Beach. For the sand will take a layer of your skin off and it hurts.
The isthmus is a perfect place to watch the kitesurfers too. There is a particular area, just to the right of the island, where the most advanced will brave the big winds. Take a seat on a bench or hunker down in the rocks and be gobsmacked at the skills you see.
Try as I might, I even asked the police one morning, but I could not gain access to the island. I would have loved to have a walk around and explore that huge lighthouse at the far end. Even without going on the island itself, there is a world of wonders to see here. It’s a magical spot at sunrise, my favourite in fact, and it might just be yours too.
