Wanting to see what old Kyoto, and old Japan might have looked like, I researched areas to visit within the city, that might offer me a glimpse into the past. What I discovered were a few spots I might find what I was searching for. I explored the beautiful Gion District in Kyoto one day, and it was enchanting.
Getting There
I will put a google link here, but basically the Gion District is quite a significant area between the river and the Yasaka Shrine which forms the base of the district.
There is so much to explore here, I could have spent days and days. The gardens, shrines, temples, parks, streets and everything that makes up this area is incredibly beautiful.
Brief History
The Yasaka Shrine was founded in 656 and quickly became an area of patronage. This is a large and varied shrine, encompassing an even larger area, with many buildings, gates and gardens.
To house all of the visitors to the shrine, a district was formed, and this is what is known as the Gion District. The area evolved into an entertainment sector, full of tea houses where geisha and maiko entertain their guests with dancing, singing and conversation.
Architecture
What I was really hoping to see, was the old wooden structures or machiya (townhouse). These buildings are so unique and peaceful to admire. Most are two stories and such a simple design.
Flat wood panelling that has developed a rich dark patina over the years forms the siding. The windows are very private, most being tightly slatted, so one may not peek in and most located on the upper floor.
Very interesting to me, are the curved wooden slats located at ground level, reaching from the road, part way up the wall of the house. I am unable to fathom what this is for? I can see that they have hinges and small doors built into them. Perhaps merely a decorative feature to hide plumbing and such?
Another feature I found enchanting where the decorative doorbells. Some with their lights brightly lit and others not.
Streets
The most famous street in this area is called Hanamikoji. Lined with large red and white lanterns, this street comes alive at night and is completely chock a block with both vehicles and pedestrians.
The Gion District these days is full of expensive restaurants and tea houses, many very exclusive, with signs out front stating they are full or to make a reservation. Very few are accessible on the spot, for impromptu dining.
The smaller streets and alleys are very quaint and lovely. Here is where I spent most of my time, admiring the flowers, lanterns, doorways and other decorative features.
Meeting an Okasan
One day I was fortunate to meet an Okasan (mother figure for the geisha) while stopping to admire her peonies. She noticed me in the alley, stooped and trying to smell these tiny white flowers. I then began to take a photo of the largest and most lush peony I had ever seen. Over she walked, and without any words of each other’s language, she began to point to the other flowers adorning her front entrance.
There was a striking purple clematis, and candy cane camellia that she was particularly proud of. It was a very small and brief moment, but so warm and lovely. Although she looked quite stern, I could sense a delicateness about her. Her front entrance was the most decorated that I saw.
Tourist Being Banned
The Gion District has received a lot of attention on social media lately. Stories flying around about how tourist are being banned from the area beginning now, this April. While I saw absolutely no evidence of this actually happening, there are signs in a few of the smaller alleys, informing visitors that no photography is allowed in that space without risk of fine.
Locals tell me of abhorrent behaviour by tourists, such as pulling at the objects in the geisha’s hair, and tugging at their clothing. This is utterly terrible and makes me both angry and sad.
What I hear on the ground, is that some of these small alleys, may in fact become blocked off to tourists at some point. So not the entire district, but a few lanes where locals are trying to live their life in peace.
I love this area, especially early in the morning, before any tourists are about. Walking these streets, watching as ingredients are being delivered for the restaurants, chefs and cooks about, and bicycles bringing in fresh product were a lovely part of everyday life to witness. The quaint old charm and beauty that I was hoping to find are still here. For now.
