There are endless things to see and do in Marjan Park, a beautiful peninsula beside the city of Split. When I was down near the water, exploring the beaches one day, I looked up at the soaring cliff face above me. And what I saw was magnificent! I needed to explore that today, so I went hiking to the caves & hermitages on Marjan Hill.
How I got there
Once I saw what I thought was an ancient building constructed right into the stone cliff face, I just knew I needed to see that. I was down at Kasjuni Beach, which is pretty much directly under where I needed to go. The only thing to do was to try and find a path upwards and over to the left a pinch.
I walked back up onto the road that led down to the beach. From there I followed the perimeter road to the left until I saw the first signs of anything resembling a path upwards. It wasn’t too long before I spotted a tiny staircase which led to a trail.
Following this trail, basically straight up, I first found the Church of St. Jerome, very cool in and of itself.
Walking up a steep staircase behind the church was the first Hermitage. I had not seen this one from the beach, it was a completely wonderful surprise to discover.
Hermitage of St. Cirijaka
This hermitage was constructed in the 15th century and used by hermits over the ages. Prior to being built, it was a set of caves which legend has it were used by St. Jerome to write his life’s works.
Arriving at this place was such a terrific feeling. I could reach the iron door but alas, it was locked, so I could not explore the inner recesses. Standing there, looking out at the view was breathtaking. The feeling of seclusion and peace is tangible.
Karepic Hermitage
When I was down at the beach, it was actually this hermitage that I had seen. After leaving St. Cirijaka, I struggled to find Karepic. Because I was right at the cliff face, I couldn’t see along it. First, I went in the wrong direction. I walked a path that was taking me back towards the city, but the cliff face was petering out.
What I needed was to go towards the point of the peninsula. After I backtracked, it wasn’t long before I found Karepic Hermitage! It is absolutely gorgeous! However, unlike St. Cirijaka, there is no path or set of stairs up to it.
I was determined to get a closer look, so into the bush I climbed.
Now I am fearful of heights and unsteady footing, so this was a challenge for me. But I did it!! I reached as close as I could get.
Later I learned that entry into this hermitage is by a rope ladder lowered from the bottom window. It was used in the 15th century by the Karepic family to hide from the Turks. Apparently, there is not much room in the caves behind the building, so long term accommodation is not possible.
I was so proud of myself for getting up here and seeing these magical ancient places!
The Descent
But I had to get back down. I scrambled about ¾ the way, and then I was actually stuck. In order for me to get onto the main road, I might have to turn to face the cliff and lower a foot, blindly hoping it found a hold on the only piece of rock possible.
This situation brought back a terrifying image of a scary time, when I decided I could re-roof my shed by myself. I did indeed complete the task, however the time I spent on the angled roof was awful. My eldest daughter was tasked with sitting outside and watching, in case I should fall and need an ambulance. 😂
This was a lightening quick flash back of that terror I felt up on that roof. Envisioning myself splattered onto the pavement below, I decided I needed to do this face first. I psyched myself up, ‘Carol you got this’, ‘you can do this’.
And I just went for it. Face first, quickly and without thought, and I did it! Unscathed!
You might be thinking, and rightly so, that this was perhaps a 10 or 12 foot drop. Well, you would be incorrect, it was only about 5 feet, but it was terrifying for me!! Don’t laugh.
I saw hermit houses!! How cool was this day!
