When ever I travel to a new destination, I try to make a point of visiting the local cemetery. I find them utterly fascinating in many ways. Visiting this coastal cemetery and seeing graves tumbling into the sea at La Penita was a new experience for me. For I have never been to a cemetery quite so close to the ocean before and had not witnessed the consequences.
The beach
The first day I went to the cemetery I approached it from the beach, not quite expecting it to be ON the beach. To say I was a bit shocked to see the water lapping at the empty stone and concrete coffins was an understatement. I assume when the cemetery was first placed at this location those interred were placed quite far away from the water. I don’t know why the water is as high as it is now in this area, but the entire front of the cemetery has sustained considerable damage.
The town’s location
If fact this entire town of La Penita seems to have been placed quite close to the high tide line. Many of the oldest structures along the beach have simply washed away. Every coastal village I have visited in Mexico and elsewhere has a line of homes along the shore with stone walls protecting them from the ravages of the ocean.
I’m not sure what prompted the locals to build quite so close to the shore line here. Perhaps when the town was first constructed the high tide line was much further out. Now almost every old building is no longer usable or has simply washed away because of the tidal damage.
The new and large homes and resorts have been constructed much further up the beach, protecting them from the tide and storms.
The cemetery – Panteon Antiguo
This cemetery is no different. The front portion that is on the beach has suffered relentless damage from the ocean. From what I understand, the coffins nearest the ocean have been washed away, including the contents. There have been discussions about moving the rest of the remains to the new cemetery that is across the highway but as of yet, here they rest.
Today I approached the cemetery from the road and walked through the space. All of the remaining crosses and adornments are facing the Pacific Ocean. All I could think of was what an incredibly peaceful and beautiful place to be laid to rest.
Like all of the Mexican cemeteries I have visited, there are many decorations and flowers decorating the burial sites. Little mementos that the person would have loved or used, such as cans of beer, packs of cigarettes, toys, flags, balloons and of course many many flowers both real and artificial.
The coffins are mostly made of concrete, some are buried and others are above ground.
The Grounds
This cemetery had quite a few larger trees and palms that offered lots of shade. The ground was dry and sandy of course with the leaf litter crunching under my feet as I walked along.
I’m glad to have seen this unique place of rest. The city speaks of building a resort or tourist park here one day so the cemetery will not be around forever. I was the only person visiting at the time, as is usually the case. I can’t explain the feeling I had when I was there. It felt significant and grounding. I felt honoured and humbled to among these people resting with the pacific ocean literally lapping at their feet.
