One of my favourite things to do in any destination is to let myself wander with abandon. And especially an old city, bursting with history and charisma that I just know is holding secrets and hidden gems. Get lost with me in Siena Italy and let’s see what we can discover.
Piazza del Campo
I am walking up from my hillside abode to begin the day here, at Piazza del Campo. This massive square is one of the largest in Tuscany. Before it was constructed in 1349 it was common land between three communities. A natural indentation, it has the shape of a bowl, and has been paved with bricks into nine quadrants. The overall effect is one of a fan or shell.
Sitting down to enjoy the winter sunshine, I can stare at that most iconic tower in Siena and the Town Hall right beside it. This is the main piazza in the city and where the twice-yearly horse races are held.
Medieval Streets
Taking one of any number of narrow stone streets that lead away from the piazza is the perfect next step. With holiday decorations still strung from above and that mystical Tuscan air, the warmth and scenes I see before me are from a novel or movie.
The old brick arches are always a favourite aspect of the architecture and every street I pass that has one, requires a further look. Some are so low that I duck down, even though I probably don’t have to. Others are up so high, they must have been built to provide support for these towering old masonry walls.
Steam escapes from vents, darkness prevails as I walk through what feel like tunnels. I never know what is around the corner and that is definitely part of the allure.
Santa Caterina
I have walked into what appears to be a courtyard and discover it is the Sanctuary of Santa Caterina. She gave herself to the church at the young age of 7 years old. This place I stand in now, used to be her home. It is revered and holy, full of religious treasure and history.
I head down a flight of stairs behind the buildings most tourists are occupying. I enter a small room that I now know was her bedroom. There is an even smaller enclave at one end and I peek through the metal bars to see what is inside. There, that item displayed in the wooden rack on the wall, is the silk bag her head was carried back from Rome in after she died and was beheaded.
You see, the Pope wanted to bury her in Rome where she lived the later part of her days. But the Sienese, knowing she belonged back in the city, cut off her head and brought it back along with her thumb. These are displayed in the Basilica of San Domenico today, just down the street.
Oldest Bakery
I am feeling a little peckish and I notice a bakery that looks jam packed. This tells me its good. In I go, marveling at the enchanting old décor and salivating at what I see in the glass cases.
This is realize is Pasticceria Nannini, the oldest bakery in Siena. Early in the 20th century a young lad who had left the city at the age of 16, returned to open not only this bakery and coffee shop, but other establishments as well. I purchase a cornetto and cream pastry, they are both underwhelming, but I have enjoyed myself and warmed up inside this pretty shop.
Oldest Bank
Speaking of oldest enterprises, as I walk down another street, I am on the lookout for a place I have previously read about. The Banca Monte dei Paschi opened its doors in 1472 and hasn’t closed them since. It is the oldest continuously operating bank in the world! The small square is filled with tour groups and this gives me incentive to head right on out, after my I snap a few photographs of course.
Buildings
Oh these lovely buildings, what a beautiful variety of architecture to see. The medieval roots are shining through but I pass many other intriguing places that stop me in my tracks. Always catching my eye, are the faux painted facades, a feature that becomes increasingly rare as age and weather destroy these pieces of art. Look at this beauty! Even the pigeons have been painted on.
Other buildings were once grand palaces; these I can discern by the large front door and entrances. If one is open, I walk right inside and have a look around. Many have gorgeous courtyards, full of historical vistas, statues, wells and such. Just look at these marvellous finds from Siena.
Siena Cathedral
Feeling rather ‘churched out’ after spending so much time in Europe, I tend not to enter them, especially if they require payment which many of the large ones do. I find myself at the Siena Cathedral and while I won’t pay to go inside, it’s the exterior that I am intrigued by.
Towards the rear of the square sits this massive piece called the Facciatone. When the structure was being expanded in the 1340’s, it was designed to be the largest cathedral in Europe, even larger than St. Peters Basilica in Rome!
Unfortunately, the Black Death struck in 1348 and wiped out one half of the city’s population. Construction halted and never resumed. Further evidence of this expansion are those white marble spots on the ground. Those were the bases of the massive pillars that were to support this part of the church.
Beautiful Vistas
As I walk around this old city, I have to marvel at the unique sights and beautiful vistas I see along the way. From the cast iron ferri, those decorative rings used to tie up horses in medieval and renaissance times, to the doors. From stone windows to laundry gently swaying in the winter sun to dry.
And from shops with their wares out to entice passersby, to architectural details that are enchanting to the eye.
Siena, thank you for letting me safely get lost in your streets. This city is a medieval gem, hilly, dark and claustrophobic, except for the main square. Full of nooks and crannies to let your mind wander, time travel and transport you to a bygone era of magic and mystery.
